Vintage Moleskin Cotton “ Pompiers de Lille” French Fire Fighter Jacket

Vintage Moleskin Cotton  “ Pompiers de Lille” French Fire Fighter Jacket




1950-1960 Vintage Moleskin Cotton Fabric Made “ Pompiers de Lille” French Fire Fighter Jacket




1950年代の“Pompiers de Lille(リール消防団)”のユニフォームジャケット。現代の機能性最優先の仕事着が捨て去ってしまったフランスならではの良さがたくさん詰まった1着です。

This is a 1950’s uniform jacket of the “Pompiers de Lille” (Lille Fire Brigade). This is a jacket filled with many of the unique qualities of France that have been discarded in favor of modern functional work wear.

軍に所属するパリ消防隊(Brigade des sapeurs-pompiers de Paris=sapeurs-pompiers)や、マルセイユ消防大隊(Bataillon de Marins-Pompiers de Marseille)のようなフランスの消防組織を代表する組織のものではなく、フランス全土レベルの消防組織の再編や規則の整理、制定以前のフランスの地方組織で使われていたもの。

The term “fire department” does not refer to a representative organization of the French fire department, such as the Brigade des sapeurs-pompiers de Paris (sapeurs-pompiers) or the Bataillon de Marins-Pompiers de Marseille (fire battalion). It was used in French regional organizations prior to the reorganization of firefighting organizations at the national level and the establishment of regulations.


Moleskin was often used for work clothes in France until the 1950s.

Moleskin is a satin weave (vermilion satin weave) like satin, but satin is a warp satin weave and moleskin is a weft satin weave. In weft satin, the weft thread passes over four warp threads (in the standard case) and dips down at the fifth thread in a repeated weave, so that only the weft thread is visible on the surface (satin is a warp version of this).


Satin weave was often used for silk weaving because the intersections between the threads were not noticeable and the surface area of the threads was large enough to produce a shiny fabric. Moleskin for work wear is a fabric with thicker and softer volume by increasing the number of weft yarn stitches and layering the yarns to take advantage of the small number of yarn intersections, and by raising the yarns, the weft yarns on the surface, which are prone to floating and snagging, are felted together to reduce their weakness.


Unlike canvas and serge, where the weave itself is sturdy, Moleskin has a structure where the thickness and durability are enhanced by the amount of yarn overlap. The weave itself is loose, and even though the fabric is thick and taut, it does not feel stiff like canvas, but has a texture with a bit of elasticity and stretch.


The number of buttons and buttonholes has been increased from four to eleven, creating a smart look with a row of buttons. The new buttonholes are made of hand-gathered linen cord.


Waterproof, highly perspiring, tough, and flame-resistant. Materials have become more and more functional, and shapes have evolved to pursue mobility and work efficiency, but in terms of fashion, the world of work wear must be degenerating.

昔のフランスのワークウェアは、「 ファッション 」 と対極の位置にあるはずの「労働着」が、様々なメゾンやデザイナーのお手本となり続ける、単なる労働着を超えた存在です。

In the past, French workwear was supposed to be the opposite of “fashion,” but it has become more than just work clothes, and continues to serve as a model for various maisons and designers.


The frayed, torn, and perforated areas throughout show that this garment was made for working people, and that it has been loved and used for a long time, a testament to the jacket’s history of being decorated in various ways, including stitching, darning, and patches.










The pockets are removed once, lined and double-layered, and then scooped and sewn by hand to the inside of the body to create a plump, textured form.

ポケットの袋布もrustic cottonで作り替え。ポケットの中にこびりついた得体の知れない過去の残滓はゴミ箱へ。

The pocket fabric is also remade in rustic cotton. The unidentifiable residue of the past stuck in the pocket is now in the trash.


The pattern around the collar is exquisitely balanced, somewhere between a tailored collar and a stand-up collar.


The upper collar is black chambraythat contrasts with the body as well as the cuffs.


The beautifully curved sleeves are unique to French workwear, where the three-dimensional pattern comes alive. The black chambray cuffs are repaired from the damage, and the form is changed to a shaped wing cuff with an opening.


The three-dimensional, compact silhouette and the increased number of buttons and buttonholes give it a classic yet modern look. The minimalist look that cancels out the warmth of handwork is old yet new.


The original metal buttons that were standard on the Pompiers uniforms, which were often missing, have been replaced with vintage deadstock glass buttons to add a softer image to the stark impression.


The back is stitched with a cross motif using indigo-dyed cotton cord.


The unintentional disorder of the stitches used to sew the lining, label, and cuffs by hand creates a plump look.


Sleeves that draw beautiful curves along the shape of the arms and jackets tailored in a three-dimensional pattern that follows the basics of French tailoring are not only functional and made for professionals, but are also full of French spirit, beauty, and strength.


Clothes with shades that reflect the time that has passed, and clothes with plump wrinkles. The charm and texture of VINTAGE, which cannot be obtained with newly made items, is combined with the present, and this is a piece of clothing that makes a clear distinction from clothes that only make you nostalgic for the world of sepia-toned photographs.


サイズ 2

肩幅  =43 cm

バスト =52cm(脇下) 

袖丈  =61cm(脇下)   

着丈  =69cm


Front Fabric = Moleskin Cotton  / Cotton

Back Fabric  = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth /  Cotton 100%

Buttons    = Dead Stock Vintage French Glass Button

                       & Antique Fabric Covered Buttons






1950-1960 Vintage Moleskin Cotton Fabric Made “ Pompiers de Lille” French Fire Fighter Jacket

[[ALTERATION By Manure Of Drawers] SOLD