Vintage Patch & Darning Irish Hand-knit Fisherman Knit Jacket

Vintage Patch & Darning Irish Hand-knit Fisherman Knit Jacket





1950-1960  Vintage Patch & Darning Irish Hand-knit Fisherman Knit Jacket by “CORNEL” in Donegal Ireland






The Aran sweater originated in the Aran Islands in northwestern Ireland, the Guernsey sweater around the island of Guernsey in the Channel Islands, the Nordic sweater in Scandinavia, and the Lopi sweater in Iceland. There are a number of sweaters in northern Europe that originated with fishermen who needed to go out to sea to perform various tasks on their boats.











Even though the warm North Atlantic Current keeps the seas from freezing even at fairly high latitudes, northern Britain, Ireland and Scandinavia are still desolate landscapes with a cold, foggy and harsh climate. The only industries were sheep farming, which could be raised on grass that could grow even in the thin soil that prevented harvesting enough to make agriculture an industry, and fishing in the sea that surrounded the area.











The only materials that ordinary people in these areas could produce for themselves were linen and hemp, which could be grown in this climate, and textiles made from sheep’s wool. In this cold climate, where the maximum temperature is only about 17 degrees Celsius even in mid-summer, woolen clothes are essential throughout the year. It was natural for each family to develop the skills and traditions to spin wool into yarn and make their own clothes in order to be self-sufficient.











Especially for the fishermen, who are the only industrial workers in this coastal area, they needed work clothes to protect themselves from the harsh natural conditions of the sea. Hand-knitted sweaters were made from raw sheep’s wool that had not lost much of its oil content in order to repel water and prevent it from penetrating the wool, and were warm, not bulky, easy to put on and take off, and inexpensive to make (at home).











The Aran sweater, which is regarded as a representative of the fisherman’s sweater, is said to have originated around the 6th century in the Aran Islands of Ireland, but in reality, it was created by a woman who was a knitting genius and was inspired by a Guernsey sweater worn by a Scottish family that frequented the port of Aran in the early 1900s. Originally, it was knitted in navy, the same color as the Guernsey sweater, but the woman knitted a white sweater for her son to wear for his Confirmation at church.











The sweaters were imitated by many of the women on the island, and different knitting techniques were devised for each, and eventually they became the formal dress for children at church functions on the island. In the 1930s, a woman from Ireland found the white sweater and sold it in her shop in Dublin, the capital of Ireland. In addition, a clothing critic who saw them introduced them to Britain with a story of his own making: He introduced it to England with a story he made up: “In the Aran Islands there is a sweater knitted like nowhere else in the world, a white sweater with a wonderfully decorative pattern, which was brought to the islands by the saint Enda in the sixth century. He had imitations made in Scotland and began selling them in England.











The legend of the Aran sweater then spread around the world and took root. After the Second World War, when Ireland was poor and had just gained independence from Britain, the Aran sweater became an attractive export item, and the legend was overwritten further. This led to a huge boom in the 1960s in the United States during the era of J.F. Kennedy, a descendant of Irish immigrants.











The origin of this sweater in the 6th or 15th century is a legend made up, but the history of this sweater, which has been handed down and knitted by the women of the Aran Islands for over 100 years (including a few for the fishermen’s families, but mostly for sale), is a fact, and the texture of the yarn and the taste of the hand-knitting process, which can take more than 10 days to complete, is authentic. But nowadays, the Aran Islands are the only place in the world where you can find them. However, there are now only about 20 knitters living in the Aran Islands, and they can only sell their products on the islands or in Ireland, not enough to export.










この1枚はアイルランドがアランセーターの輸出に国を挙げて取り組んでいた1950年代に、アラン諸島から北東に700kmほど離れた北部アイルランドのDonegal(ドニゴール)にあったCORNEL社(2000年頃に廃業)が作ったもの。DonegalはスコットランドのHarrisTweedと双璧をなすDonegal Tweedのを生み出した地域で、原材料になる質の良い毛糸の産地。また今はもう幻となったアイリッシュリネンの生産地でもあり、繊維産業が盛んな地域でした。

This piece was made by CORNEL (which went out of business around 2000) in Donegal, Northern Ireland, about 700 km northeast of the Aran Islands, in the 1950s when Ireland was making a national effort to export Aran sweaters. Donegal is the birthplace of Donegal Tweed, which is the twin peer of Harris Tweed in Scotland, and the source of the high quality yarn used to make it. Donegal was also the birthplace of Irish linen, which is no longer produced in the area, and had a thriving textile industry.











This one is a pure “Made in Ireland Aran Pattern Hand Knit”, knitted entirely by one Irish knitter living in Ireland, and is rarely made anew nowadays. This sweater is a combination of various knitted fabrics, and is complex enough to take even a skilled knitter more than 10 days to make. The most popular color, off-white (raw), is locally called Bainin, which means “as is” in Gaelic.











Aran sweaters can be defined as: 1. knitted entirely by one person in the Aran Islands; 2. knitted entirely by one person in the Aran Islands and the surrounding west coast of Ireland; 3. knitted entirely by one person by an Irish knitter living in Ireland; 4. 3. knitted entirely by Irish knitters living in Ireland; 4. knitted in European countries other than Ireland, such as England (Scotland) (Inverallan, which is highly regarded in Japan, is a fine hand-knitted sweater with an aran pattern knitted in Scotland, but it is not an aran sweater); 5.Chinese, Indian and other knitted or machine-knitted sweaters may be considered as just aran pattern knitted sweaters.











This jacket is an ALTERATION of an Aran pattern a 1950’s Irish hand-knit fisherman’s knit cardigan with a collar.











The lining is attached on the inside to enhance the warmth, pockets and other functions as outerwear, and ease of wear. The rustic cotton broadcloth has a moderate tension and wrinkles, and the rustic look of the yarn woven in India is attractive.














The round shape and bulging inner pockets that enhance the function of the jacket. The contrast gives a sense of taste and cleanliness.]











Vintage linen cord fastening the lining. The rhythm created by the unintentional and natural disorder of the stitching due to the handwork.












The large collar is buttoned so that it can be fastened standing up. The patch on the hem is also unique in that it pops out from the edge and extends.










In order not to interfere with the elasticity and softness of the knit, the hem of the lining is left floating. The yarn that plays with the cut hem of the lining gives a light impression.











裾や袖口の糸切れには、アクセントを兼ねたwrap around stitchを。

Wrap around stitching is used to accentuate thread breaks at the hem and cuffs.











The darninig has been repaired from thread breakage damage caused by snagging over years of wear.











Both fronts are patched with vintage or antique scraps for accent and repair.











The buttons are randomly selected vintage wood buttons.











The seamless pockets, which are unique to hand-knitting, are not dismantled, but instead a cotton inner bag is attached to make them easy to use.












Basic, yet somehow modern in appearance.

This is the kind of clothing that can’t be done with just anything old or new.









サイズ 2

裄丈(ラグランスリーブ) =85cm :(肩幅48cm袖丈56cm相当)


着丈 =68cm


表地   = Irish Unbleached Wool / Wool100%

ライナー = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth / Cotton 100%

ボタン  = Vintage Wood Button (Random Choice)

                     & Antique Fabric Covered Button






1950-1960  Vintage Patch & Darning Irish Hand-knit Fisherman Knit Jacket by “CORNEL” in Donegal Ireland

[ALTERATION By Manure of Drawers]  SOLD