Vintage Brown Salt and Pepper “Cote de Cheval” made Hunting Jacket by “AP Michel J.B.P” 

Vintage Brown Salt and Pepper “Cote de Cheval” made Hunting Jacket by “AP Michel J.B.P” 


1940-1950 Vintage Brown Salt and Pepper “Cote de Cheval made Hunting Jacket by French Old Manufacture “AP Michel J.B.P” 



フランスの老舗企業の“AP Michel J.B.P”社が製造したハンティングジャケット。珍しいブラウンのソルトアンドペッパーの“Cote de Cheval”(côtelé)の、着込まれた枯れた風合いが素敵な1枚です。

This is a hunting jacket manufactured by AP Michel J.B.P., a long-established company in France. It is a rare brown salt and pepper “Cote de Cheval” (côtelé)with a wonderful worn-in, withered texture.











This is a jacket from a time when the pursuit of high performance and functionality left a lot to be desired, something that modern hunting wear, consisting of synthetic fibers, zippers and velcro, has abandoned.











The hunting jacket is one of the most popular French vintage clothing for the fall and winter seasons. Those with a good balance of age and condition are becoming rarer and rarer every year, and they keep getting more and more expensive.











About 80 years ago, when hunting was still a luxury hobby. The fabric is an unusual shade of brown and black mélange yarn, while most of them are gray, black, or off-white mélange.











The jacket, tailored in a three-dimensional pattern that follows the basics of French tailoring, was made for hunting. Not only is it functional, but it is also full of French beauty and strength.










“Cote de Cheval” (ホースリブ)やcôteléと呼ばれる生地は、ピケやアンカットコールのような畝のある二重織の生地で、中綴じになった中空の畝が並ぶ特殊な織り方の生地です。中空の畝と起毛された裏側部分の作り出す空気の幕は外気を通さず、保温性の高い生地は、ハンティングや乗馬などに最適です。

“Cote de Cheval” (horse ribs), or côtelé, is a fabric used to make with ridges like pique or uncut, and a special weave of hollow ridges lined with saddle stitching. The hollow ridges and the raised underside of the fabric create a curtain of air that keeps out the outside air, making it an ideal insulating fabric for hunting and riding.











In the past, it was used for military uniforms and outdoor clothing because of its resistance to abrasion, and it continues to be used for riding clothes. The disadvantage is that due to its complicated structure, weaving efficiency is low, making it an expensive fabric, and there are very few factories that can weave it nowadays.














The sleeves, pockets, and other parts of the garment that have been worn and loved are mended with careful darning and patching.











Game pockets on the back for hunting prey. The large pocket opening is impressive.











Dog, horse, deer, boar, fox, wolf. Vintage animal relief buttons with a mix of hunter and prey. The original buttonholes are unraveled and re-glued with linen cord, and new buttonholes are made to double the number of buttons, creating a classic yet modern and powerful look.











The buttons, which are slightly painted, rusted, and dull in color, are imprinted with the traces of long time, just like this jacket.











Hand work on the lining and around the hem. The natural disorder of the stitches, which are painstakingly sewn into the fabric by hand, is the crystallization of time giving a rich flavor.











The pocket is lined and double-layered, and the inside is scooped and sewn to the body by hand to give it a full, textured form. The lining of the flap has been replaced, and the pocket has been dismantled and rebuilt with fabric on the back. Over the years, a surprising amount of dust has accumulated in the pockets and on the underside of the outer fabric, and the unidentifiable residue of time has stuck to the pockets. So I put them in the trash.














The round, flat pattern and the slightly larger collar give it a unique vintage French look. Once dismantled, the damage was repaired and the back of the collar was changed to antique linen with fine stitching.














The back of the collar is made of antique linen dyed with India ink. The stitching on the back edge and the hand-stitching of red linen to hold it in place are also details that cannot be seen.











The contrast of the fabric and color of the liner, which is made by removing the old lining, removing the dust that has accumulated on the inside, and attaching the liner by hand, as well as the plump taste created by the wrinkles created by sewing with linen cords, are the elements that eliminate the filthiness that clings to old clothes, and furthermore, dispel the heavy impression that comes with old clothes and change them into a modern impression. 











Rustic cotton broadcloth has moderate tension and wrinkles, and the rustic look of the yarn woven in India is appealing.











In France, the hunting ban is lifted around the end of September, and as the autumn season deepens, gibier starts to appear on the market shelves and the autumn season of food begins in earnest. France is the largest hunting country in Europe and has a culture of enjoying gibier, so not only professional hunters but also many people look forward to the lifting of the hunting ban in autumn.











In France, hunting as a leisure and sport is said to be second only to soccer in popularity. More than 1.2 million people (mostly men) have hunting licenses, which is about 5% of all French men over the age of 16 who are eligible for a hunting license, second only to the 2.2 million soccer enthusiasts and higher than the 1.1 million tennis enthusiasts.











For non-hunters who hunted as a way of earning a living, hunting was an extravagant pastime enjoyed by the aristocracy and other privileged and wealthy classes, but it gradually came to be widely enjoyed.











Vintage has a meaning that goes beyond just being old. It is a kind of clothing that can do things that only old or new can do. Clothes that are not just vintage, for people who do not want their clothes to have antique value or serve as a price tag to make them look expensive.










サイズ 2

肩幅   =45 cm

袖丈 = 62 cm

バスト= 55cm(脇下)   

着丈 = 69cm


Outer Fabric = Salt and Pepper “Cote de Cheval” / Cotton 100%

Lining Fabric = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth / Cotton 100%

Button        = Vintage Animal Relief Button (Random Choice)

                     & Antique Fabric Covered Button






1940-1950 Vintage Brown Salt and Pepper “Cote de Cheval made Hunting Jacket by French Old Manufacture “AP Michel J.B.P” 

[ALTERATION By Manure of Drawers]  SOLD