Vintage Darning & Patched Tailored Jacket Made for Export Harris Tweed

Vintage Darning & Patched  Tailored Jacket Made for Export Harris Tweed




1950-1960  Vintage Darning & Patched British Tailored  Jacket Made for Export  Old Scottish Harris Tweed 




This fabric is woven in Scotland, the birthplace of tweed, which is representative of British tweed among various regions such as Donegal and Shetland. This jacket has a natural and rustic texture with a plump expression of a slightly thicker and more solid fabric typical of old wool, but with a compact fit and a modern balance.











Woolen tweed is made from short, coarse wool fibers, and has a texture that is the opposite of worsted tweed, which is soft and supple and is made by combing and twisting long wool fibers. Harris tweed is woven on the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides, which is surrounded by the harsh nature of the North Atlantic Ocean. The island, with its cold, misty, harsh climate and desolate landscape, is covered with rocks and peat that prevent agriculture from being a viable industry, with the only industries being sheep farming, which can be done with grasses that grow in the thin soil, and fishing in the surrounding sea.











The only materials that the islanders were able to produce for themselves were flax (linen) and hemp, which were grown in the island’s climate, and textiles made from sheep’s wool. In the cold climate, where the maximum temperature is around 17 degrees Celsius even in the middle of summer, woolen clothing is essential throughout the year, and it was natural for each family to develop the skill and tradition of spinning wool into yarn and weaving it themselves in order to be self-sufficient.











In particular, fishermen, an important industry on the island, needed work clothes to protect themselves from the harsh natural conditions of the sea. The tweed of Harris Island is made from raw wool that has not been stripped of its oils to repel water and prevent it from penetrating the wool, and is woven thick and strong using a mixture of wool that fills the gaps in the weave while maintaining warmth, and kemp for tension and strength. It is the third largest industry on the island.











In the wild, sheep were covered on the outside with thick, coarse, and long “upper hair” (kemp), and on the inside was the short, soft, and fine “lower hair” (burmese wool), like lamb’s wool. Yarns made of kemp are strong and sturdy, but they are not comfortable to wear, and the softer and warmer wool is more suitable to wear. However, before the domestication of sheep, the wool part of the fabric was underdeveloped and only a small amount could be obtained, and only kemp was available. As the sheep were domesticated, the breed was improved to develop wool, and the kemp part of the sheep degenerated, and the wool was no longer replaced, leading to the birth of the ultimate sheep, the merino, which is covered with fine, soft wool.











The oil in the raw wool that was left in the woven fabric has been lost over time, and the slightly dry texture is something that only vintage tweed has. The slightly dry texture is something that only vintage tweeds have and can only be obtained through time.











The yarn is spun in a way similar to hand spinning, and woven on a loom that is narrower (90cm) than normal (150cm). This is the original form of vintage tweed, which is impossible to find nowadays.











Deep shades that indicate that it was born to blend in and confront the dark and harsh nature of England. This herringbone tweed is woven with yarns of complex and varied colors of dead brown.











Post-war Britain was in an economically exhausted state. In addition, the Labour Party’s policy of nationalizing industry had reduced Britain’s international competitiveness. This fabric, which was made for the United States as an export product to obtain foreign currency, never left the port and was tailored in England.











The hem of the front is rounded, the shape of the shoulders is adjusted, all the stitching on the hips is undone, the hem is made fuller and softer, and the rustic cotton liner is hand-felted. This jacket is made with a rustic cotton liner that is all hand-fabricated and ALTERATION is made to give it a full, airy look.











Because of the handcrafted nature of the fabric, the irregular vents and surgeon’s cuffs are soft with beautiful hand-sewn wrinkles. The width of the sleeves can be adjusted, and they are also cut to create a look that increases the enjoyment of wearing the garment many times over.











The original buttonholes have been unthreaded and re-glued by hand. The rustic cotton broadcloth, which has been replaced with cupro lining, has moderate tension and wrinkles, and the rustic look of the yarn woven in India is attractive. The hand-patted liner gives the fabric texture, color contrast, and clean feeling. The soft stitching and wrinkles are the result of handwork.










ウエストポケットも胸ポケットも旧い袋布を取り外して、新たにrustic cottonで作り替えています。長年の間にたまる服の内側の埃や、ポケットに残る汚れやこびりついた埃を取り除き、不潔な残滓は全てゴミ箱へ捨てる事もALTERATIONの基本です。

The waist pockets, chest pockets,  are all made from rustic cotton after removing the old sackcloth. ALTERATION is also based on removing dust from the inside of the garment, dirt and stuck dust from the pockets, and throwing all filthy residue into the trash.










全体に散りばめられた擦り切れや破れなど多くのダメージを示す持ち主の愛着と愛用の印。そのダメージに施したPatchとDarning、wrap around stitchよる魅せる補修。

The owner’s marks of attachment and love are shown in the many damages such as wear and tear scattered throughout the entire piece. The damage is repaired by Patch, Darning, and wrap around stitching.











Even if you come across such a valuable vintage and it fits you, it is difficult to feel like it fits today because it has big shoulder pads, too tight core, too thick sleeves, too long length, and so on.











What is impossible to reproduce in the modern age is made into a piece of clothing that is not only attractive as “rare, precious, and old,” but also old but never old. Only real time, chance, and hands can create something that can never be created on paper or in a computer screen.











サイズ 1(custom size)

肩幅 =39cm 


袖丈 =57 cm 

着丈 =68cm


表地   = Old Scottish Harris Tweed / Wool100%

ライニング= Indian Rustic Cotton Broad / Cotton100%

ボタン  = Buffalo Horn Button(Random choice)

       & Antique Fabric Covered Button






1950-1960  Vintage Darning & Patched British Tailored  Jacket Made for Export  Old Scottish Harris Tweed 

[ALTERATION By Manure of Drawers]  SOLD