“Marine Nationale” Officers Linen Tailored Work Jacket

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1950-1960 Vintage French “Marine Nationale” Officers Linen Tailored Work Jacket

大事にされ愛着があったからこそ、捨てられずに眠っていた誰かの箪笥の肥し。

70年ほど前の、フランス海軍“Marine Nationale”の下士官のテイラー仕立てのワークジャケット。

It is the feces of someone’s chest of drawers, which had been lying untossed because it had been cherished and loved.

This is a work jacket tailored by a junior officer of the French Navy “Marine Nationale” about 70 years ago.

70年経っても、しっかりとした質感と上品な光沢が上質さを物語るフランスならではのリネン生地が美しい。

Even after 70 years, the firm texture and elegant luster of this uniquely French linen fabric speaks of its high quality

作業時の上っ張りとして仕立てられたものとは思えないような丁寧な仕立て。ダーツでウエストにシェイプを効かせ、このころならではの美意識が注がれた、コンパクトなフィット感のジャケットです。

It is so carefully tailored that it is hard to believe that it was originally made as a work jacket. With darts to shape the waist, this jacket has a compact fit that reflects the aesthetic sensibilities of the time.

綺麗な曲線を描く袖は、立体的なパターンの良さが生きるフランスの仕事着ならではのもの。

The beautifully curved sleeves are unique to French workwear, where the advantages of a three-dimensional pattern come alive.

擦り切れのあった襟やヘムへは、antiqueのリネン生地をpatch。派手な継ぎはぎを避けて、ステッチの控えめなコントラストだけが主張する大人の魅せる補修。

The antique linen fabric is patched to the frayed neckline and hems, avoiding showy joints, and only the discreet contrast of the stitching is used to create an appealing repair for adults.

海軍らしさを表す、鋭角のピークドラペルの凛々しい襟周りの顔つき。

The face around the collar is dignified with sharply angled peaked lapels that expresses a naval character.

襟を囲むpatchの1.2-1.5mmの細かな手のステッチ。全て手かがりのボタンホール。手の温もりや素朴さとは全く違う乾いた手仕事。でもその自然な乱れが作り出す表情は、ミシンには作り出せない味を生む。

1.2-1.5mm fine hand stitching on PATCH surrounding the collar.　Dry handwork that is completely different from the warmth and simplicity of the hand. However, the expression created by the natural disorder of the handwork gives it a taste that cannot be created by a sewing machine.

中に入れた物が擦れて擦り切れたポケットや、着ている時に擦り切れた襟や袖には、patchとdarning。

Pockets that are frayed from the wear and tear of the items put inside, and patches and darning on the lapels and sleeves that are frayed from wearing the garment.

偶然と時間が作ったダメージと、考える縫い子の手仕事の作り出したもの。

Damage created by chance and time and the handiwork of thinking seamstresses.

元々の形は合わせは深いものの、4ボタンのシングルのジャケットだったもの。その深い合わせを活かして、ボタンホールを作って浅いダブルに変更しました。

The original shape was a single jacket with four buttons, although the fit was deep lap. We took advantage of that deep lap and changed it to a shallow double by making buttonholes.

4つだったボタンとボタンホールを14個に増やして、ボタンが描くリズムで遊びを。

The number of buttons and buttonholes was increased from four to fourteen to play with the rhythm drawn by the buttons.

選んだボタンはランダムに選んだフランスのvintageとantiqueのガラスボタン。プラスティックがまだ無かった頃に、重宝されたガラスのボタン。

The buttons selected were French vintage and antique glass buttons chosen at random. Glass buttons were useful in the days when plastic was not yet available.

クリスタルや色ガラスなど、装飾的な意味合いが強いチェコやベネツィアのガラスボタンと比較すると、素朴で飾り気のない、庶民や労働者にむけた実質的なシンプルな形がたくさん作られて浸透していたフランス特有のボタンたち。

Compared to Czech and Venetian glass buttons, which are more decorative, such as crystal and colored glass, French buttons are rustic and unadorned, and many simple, substantial shapes were made and penetrated by the common people and workers.

不揃いな形の元素材を切ってくり抜いて削って作る、木や貝や骨や角より整形が簡単。形や大きさの調整も自在。工場で量産ができて安価、木や紙より丈夫。乳白色の素朴な質感と形の、使い込まれて色のくすんだボタンが、味わいをさらに深めます。

It is easier to shape than wood, shells, bones, and horns, which are made by cutting, hollowing out, and cutting down the original material of irregular shapes. The shape and size can be freely adjusted. Can be mass-produced in factories at low cost, and more durable than wood or paper. The milky-white rustic texture and shape of the buttons, which have become dull with use, further deepen the flavor of the product.

襟を立ててさまになるしっかりしたシルエット。ワークウェアでありながらも、合わせの身返しにはちゃんと芯を張って、襟裏には細かなステッチの入るテーラー仕立てならではの造り。

A solid silhouette that looks great with the collar up. While it is workwear, the body of the garment has a core lining, and the back of the collar is finely stitched, as only tailor-made garments can be.

1枚仕立てのジャケットにライニングしたラスティックなコットンブロードは、適度な張りとシワ感が有り、素朴な糸の表情が魅力です。

The rustic cotton broadcloth lining of this one-piece jacket has just the right amount of tension and wrinkling, and the rustic look of the yarn is appealing.

深い身返しと手のステッチの効いたライニングの裾は、身頃に止めずに泳がせて裾周りを軽く。

The hem of the lining, with its deep turnover and hand stitching, swiings without stopping at the body and is light around the hem.

裏地と表地の洗いざらしの生み出すしわ、白と生成りの清潔感のあるコントラスト。

The wrinkles created by the washing of the lining and outer fabric, and the clean contrast between the white and the raw color.

手仕事だからこその、手縫い皺も美しい柔らかな仕様です。

Because it is handmade, the hand-sewn wrinkles are also beautiful and soft.

ポケットは一旦解体し、ダメージを補修。裏地をつけて手縫いで取り付け、丸みと緩やかな立体感のあるポケットに。

The pockets were dismantled and the damage repaired. They were lined and hand-stitched to give the pockets a rounded and gently three-dimensional appearance.

防水、高発汗、強靭、難燃。素材はどんどん高機能になり、形も運動性や作業効率を追求したものへと進化を続けてきたけれど、ファッション的には退化しているに違いない仕事着の世界。

Waterproof, highly perspiring, tough, and flame-retardant. Materials have become more and more sophisticated, and shapes have continued to evolve in pursuit of mobility and work efficiency, but in terms of fashion, the world of work clothes must be degenerating.

紙の上やデジタル画面の中からは、決して生み出されることのない、流行やブランドや値段の多寡に惑わされない価値観を持った方々の、その人自身を魅せる衣です。

It is a garment that fascinates people who have values that are never created on paper or digital screens, and who are not confused by trends, brands, or prices.