End of 19th Century Antique Pure French Linen Paysan Smock Coat

End of 19th Century Antique Pure French  Linen  Paysan Smock Coat


End of 19th Century Hand woven Pure Linen French Antique Paysan Chore Worker  Smock Coat





Old linen smocks and biaude hand-made in rural areas of France have a different appeal from ordinary French workwear, with their three-dimensional and curvy designs created by tailor-made patterns and sewing, and the atmosphere of the fabric.









French work in general developed with the development of industry and commerce in urban and suburban areas, and was manufactured, supplied, purchased and worn in the sense of a uniform. The workwear itself, an industrially produced product based on design and pattern making, sewing and process control by experts with clothing knowledge and skills, was an admirable product and a crystallization of the industrial revolution and modernization.














On the other hand, in the surrounding rural areas, life and work clothes were not modernized until the mid-1900s.

In France, where the self-sufficiency rate of food is still over 120% and the country is the largest agricultural producer in the European Union (EU), people engaged in cattle breeding produced their own handmade clothing and work clothes, such as the biaude and the smock, which were used as indoor and sleeping clothes by farmers.











In France, smocks and biaudes are not only made to be purchased, but many of them have been made by farmers based on samples that have been passed down from generation to generation. The original models, which have been handed down since before the development of specialized knowledge of clothing, such as patterns to create a three-dimensional shape that follows the body, were made to unique specifications, combining parts made up of straight lines, using as little fabric as possible and making sewing easy.















The original shape itself is a combination of rectangular parts made up of straight lines, but thanks to the carefully folded gathers, it has a full, soft and voluminous outline and expression. However, in spite of the uniqueness of the form, the fit of the shoulders and arms is not as good as it should be for clothes to be worn now, to be honest.











To compensate for this shortcoming, the armholes and neckline have been modified to make them more comfortable to wear, and the smock, which is unique in its own right and has been around for over 100 years, has been altered into a coat that can be worn loosely, and pockets have been created to fulfill the functions necessary for clothing that can be worn now.The French embroidery of the original owner’s initials will remain near the right pocket.














The soft volume is created by the generous gathers around the cuffs and neck. The carefully folded bulges round out the impression.











In France, where linen is a major source of income, it is not uncommon for farmers to grow their own linen, and to sew their own tailoring from linen that they had spun into yarn and woven into fabric.











Antique French bed linen is used to make up for the length of the reworked chest panel, collar, and sleeves. A combination of whites with slightly different degrees of whiteness and thread texture.















The wrinkles created by the unevenness of hand-sewing, such as panel switching, holding stitches, facing holding stitches, and buttonholes, create depth.










肩や脇などシーム部分の縫しろを手で丹念にかがりつけたステッチ。ダメージに上から生地をのせてpatchするのではなく、象嵌細工のように生地をくり抜きながらモザイク状に生地をpatchしていくフランス独特のpatch work=travail de patchで描き出した象嵌模様。時間と人の手が紡ぎ出すアートです。

The stitching on the shoulder and side seams is carefully done by hand. The inlaid pattern is drawn by the unique French patch work = travail de patch, where the fabric is patched in a mosaic pattern while hollowing out the fabric like an inlay work, instead of patching the damage by putting the fabric on top. It is an art spun out by time and human hands.















A sleek and powerful look with narrow spacing and a row of buttons. The stitch work on the back is an accent. The French linen cord is painstakingly stitched to create a cross-shaped motif.











The round, flat pattern and the slightly larger collar give it the unique look of a French antique. Once dismantled, the damage was repaired and the back side was replaced with an antique linen back collar with fine stitching.











In contrast to cotton, which is imported, French linen is easy to obtain because it is grown in France.

The fabric has a deep taste with various textures and shades that reflect the passage of time, and the withered texture further enhances the taste.











The natural fabric woven with fine yarn and plain weave is full of simple goodness that conveys the boldness of France, a major agricultural country, which is completely different from the sophistication and stylishness demanded by working people in urban areas such as Paris and Lyon.











Farmhouse smocks like this are often made of hemp, but this one is made of linen, which is rare. The owner may have been a relatively wealthy farmer, but the damage left in many places indicating that it has been worn shows the relationship between clothing and people at this time.











The shoulders and sleeves are once removed, and the armholes of the sleeving line, which used to be straight, and the sleeve shoulders are ALTERATION into a shape that is easier to wear. The collar is made, the sleeve length is added, the cuffs, lining, and pockets are remade, the damage is repaired, the fabric is joined, the thread is inserted, and the front opening is changed.











The sleeve length is added with antique linen, and softly shaped cuffs are made also with antique linen. The buttonholes are roughly hand-crocheted with linen cord. The useless pockets, sewn together by hand, are also a small accent.











The buttons I chose were the most popular vintage buttons used on French hunting jackets, where one button was equivalent to 1-1.5 Big Macs. 16mm small buttons were randomly selected from various materials and various animal motifs. The buttons have been sewn on. The buttons, with their slightly peeling paint and dull colors, bear the same traces of time that are engraved on this smock.










ハンドステッチでのラスティックコットンのライニング。   縫い目を押さえるステッチ。ダメージへのpatchとdarning。手の温もりではなくストイックさを伝える不揃いなステッチ、縫い皺の表情や生地のコントラストが乾いた奥行きを作り出します。

Hand-stitched rustic cotton lining.   Stitching to hold the seams. The uneven stitching conveys stoicism rather than the warmth of the hand, and the stitching creases and fabric contrasts create a dry depth.











The coloration that comes from being worn and worked on is a trace of time that can never be reproduced by processing.Clothes are not only for antique value.We want to create garments that are not only antique in value, but that also reflect the glory of the past and the present.They are “old and new, new and old,” fused with modernity.

I hope you will enjoy the existence of only one piece.










サイズ 2(M相当)

肩幅 =46cm 


袖丈 =65 cm 

着丈 =102cm


Front Fabric = Antique Hand Woven Linen / Linen 100%   

Back Fabric  = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth /  Cotton 100%

Buttons    = Vintage Animal Relief Button (Random Choice)

                       & Antique Fabric Covered Buttons




End of 19th Century Antique Hand woven Pure French Linen  Paysan Chore Worker  Smock Coat

[ALTERATION By Manure of Drawers]  SOLD