Vintage Patch and Stitch Knit Jacket by French Authentic Designer “MARCEL LASSANCE”

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1970-1980 Vintage Patch and Stitch Trimmed Knit Jacket by French Authentic Long Established Designer “MARCEL LASSANCE”

衣料販売店の中で、さまざまな仕入れ先から商品を仕入れて販売する品揃え店は、数多ある普遍的で一般的な形ですが、仕入れ先と編集の方向と指向を昇華させて、所謂セレクトショップと称される域に到達できるのは、ごく僅かな割合です。

Among clothing retailers, there are many stores that purchase products from a variety of suppliers and sell them in an assortment that is both universal and common. However, only a small percentage of these stores are able to sublimate the direction and orientation of their suppliers and editors and reach the level of what is called a “select store.

国を渡ることが今のように簡単ではなく、情報の量も媒体も僅かで今とは比べようもなかった1960-70年頃に、それが可能だったのは卓抜した先見性と感覚を兼ね備えた人たちだけでした。

In the 1960s and 1970s, when crossing countries was not as easy as it is today, and the amount and medium of information were few and far between, it was only those with exceptional foresight and sensibility who could do so.

セレクトショップの黎明期に先鞭をつけたのは、LAのFRED SEGAL(1961)、LONDONのJOSEPH(1966)、同じくLONDONのBROWNS(1970)など。1973年に1店舗目が開業したMarcel Lassanceは、パリ初のセレクトショップと言えるのだと思います。当時、買い付けた商品と、自分の名前(=店名)を冠したオリジナル商品を同時に販売した形態は唯一と考えられます。

The first select stores in the early days of select stores were FRED SEGAL (1961) in LA, JOSEPH (1966) in LONDON, and BROWNS (1970), also in LONDON. I think it can be said that Marcel Lassance was the first select shop in Paris. At that time, it was the only one that sold both purchased products and original products under its own name (=store name) at the same time.

Marcel Lassanceの存在は、1975年の“GLOBE”、1979年の“HEMISPHERE”、1994年の“ANATOMICA”と、名店を生み出してきたPIERRE FOURNIER氏にも影響を与えたであろうことが想像できます。

We can imagine that Marcel Lassance’s presence must have influenced PIERRE FOURNIER, who created the famous “GLOBE” in 1975, “HEMISPHERE” in 1979, and “ANATOMICA” in 1994.

テキスタイルデザイナーからスタートしたMarcel Lassance氏は、1971年に独立し、1973年に8区のRue Marbeufで店を始め、1976年に6区のRue du Vieux Colombierに移転し、2018に閉店するまで45年間、服好きのパリジャンに愛され続けたお店でした。

Marcel Lassance, who started as a textile designer, became independent in 1971, started his store in 1973 at Rue Marbeuf in the 8th arrondissement, moved to Rue du Vieux Colombier in the 6th arrondissement in 1976, and for 45 years until its closure in 2018, the shop was loved by Parisians who love clothes.

顧客にはマルチェロマストロヤンニやカトリーヌドヌーブ始め多くの俳優、映画、芸術関係者のほか、ミッテラン大統領などの政治家や起業家などが名を連ねていました。

Clients included Marcello Mastroianni, Catherine Deneuve, and many other actors, film and arts professionals, as well as politicians and entrepreneurs such as President Mitterrand.

Marcel Lassance氏はフランスの子供服“Bonpoint”オーナーののMarie-FranceとBernardのCohen夫妻とも親交が深く、2人が“Bonpoint”の経営から手を離したのち、2009年にマレ北部のbd Beaumarchaisに開業した広大なlife style concept storeである“Merci”のメンズ部門のディレクションを2010年から託されています。

Marcel Lassance is a close friend of Marie-France and Bernard Cohen, the owners of Bonpoint children’s clothing in France. After they left the management of “Bonpoint”, they entrusted me with the direction of the men’s department of “Merci”, a vast life style concept store that opened in 2009 in bd Beaumarchais in the northern part of the Marais.

この1枚は、開業初期に作られたもの。イタリア北部、Biella地方で長い業容を誇るニットとカットソーのスペシャリストのMAGLIFICIO MAGGIA社に製造を託したオリジナル。

This piece was made in the early days of the business. The original was manufactured by MAGLIFICIO MAGGIA, a knit and cut-and-sew specialist with a long history in the Biella region of northern Italy.

愛用され着込まれた50年近い時が経過しても、毛玉など全く見られない美しさは、イタリアで300年以上の歴史を持ち、原毛の選別、毛糸を作る紡糸や高性能の梳毛機で作り出すファインメリノヤーン、その糸の染色、編み上げて生地やガーメントにする工程まで全てを自社で行うMAGLIFICIO MAGGIA社ならではのものです。

The beauty of the garment, which shows no pilling even after nearly 50 years of use and wear, is unique to MAGLIFICIO MAGGIA, which has a history of more than 300 years in Italy and handles everything in-house from sorting raw wool, spinning yarn to make wool yarn, and fine merino yarn produced on a high-performance carding machine to dyeing and knitting the yarn to make fabric and garments. This is unique to MAGLIFICIO MAGGIA.

アウターとしての防寒性やポケットなどの機能、着やすさを高めるために内側につけたライニング。ラスティックなコットンブロードは、適度な張りとシワ感が有り、インドで織られた素朴な糸の表情が魅力です。

Lining attached to the inside to enhance warmth as outerwear, functionality such as pockets, and ease of wear. Rustic cotton broadcloth has a moderate tension and wrinkle, and the rustic look of the yarn woven in India is appealing.

アウターの機能を高める丸いフォルムと膨らみが味のある内ポケット。味わいと清潔感を与えるコントラスト。

The round shape and bulging inside pocket tastefully enhance the outerwear’s functionality. Contrasts that give a sense of taste and cleanliness.

ライニングを留め付けたvintageの太いリネンコード。手仕事ゆえのステッチの意図せぬ自然な乱れが生むリズム。

Vintage thick linen cords fastened to the lining. The rhythm created by the unintentional and natural disorder of the stitches due to the handwork.

ニットの伸び縮みする良さと、柔らかさを邪魔しないために、ライニングの裾はとめずに浮かせた状態。そのライニングのカットされたヘムで遊ぶ糸が、印象を軽やかに。

In order not to interfere with the elasticity and softness of the knit, the hem of the lining is left floating. The yarn that plays with the cut hem of the lining gives a light impression.

長年の着用による引っ掛けや擦り切れによる糸切れダメージを補修したdarninig。

Darninig repaired thread damage caused by snagging and fraying from years of wear.

裾や袖口の糸切れには、アクセントを兼ねたwrap around stitchを。

Wrap around stitches at hems and cuffs for thread breakage, which also serve as accents.

両方の前たてに縫い付けたvintageやantique生地のpatch。入り組んだ形と生地感、色合いのコントラストのバランスの妙味。

Patches of vintage and antique fabrics sewn on both fronts. The intricate shapes and fabrics, and the odd balance of contrasting shades.

パッチワークに良く用いられる端部のほつれた切りっぱなしや、ラフなステッチによるpatchではなく、1-1.5mmの細やかなステッチと控えめなコントラストの糸で縁取られた生地の集積。

This is not a patch with frayed edges or rough stitching, as is often the case in patchwork, but an accumulation of fabrics trimmed with 1-1.5 mm fine stitches and contrasting threads in subdued colors.

襟にもボタンを付けて、立てて留められるように。へムのpatchは端から飛び出して伸びる形もユニークです。

The collar is also buttoned so that it can be stood up and fastened. The PATCH on the hem is also unique in shape, popping out from the edge and extending.