Vintage India Ink Dyed Irish Linen Cord Stripe Fabric Made Maquignon Coat

Vintage India Ink Dyed Irish Linen Cord Stripe Fabric Made Maquignon Coat



1950-19560 Vintage India Ink Dyed Pure Irish Linen Cord Stripe Fabric Made Maquignon Work Coat





Irish linen is synonymous with luxury linen and is a sign of the highest quality.

However, the cultivation of flax, the raw material for linen production in Ireland, ceased more than 60 years ago in the 1960s, and the spinning of linen from flax ceased around 1990.












Originally, Irish linen was made by spinning flax, which was cultivated in Ulster in the north of Ireland (Donagal and Tyrone, where Herdmans was located), into yarn and weaving it in Ireland.

Nowadays, Irish linen is mainly made from flax from France and Belgium, spun into yarn in China and other countries, and woven in Irish Linen Guild member companies and their authorized mills (often outside of Ireland).











And so the curtain has fallen on the “real” Irish linen, which no matter how much you want it or how much money you put into it, you just can’t get it again.











In such a situation, discovering vintage Irish linen from the time when “real” Irish linen was still being made must be the only way to get what you can never have, no matter how much you want it.











Irish linen” was a valuable export for Ireland, which was economically exhausted after the Great War and its withdrawal from the British Commonwealth in 1949, in order to earn foreign currency. However, at that time, Irish linen was only a fabric for general use with good quality and texture, and was not particularly expensive. This fabric is a dead stock of fabric exported to France at that time.











The warp yarn is woven by combining two indigo blue yarns spun in the fine count unique to Irish linen and one thicker count yarn spun in a melange of indigo blue and raw silk, resulting in a corded stripe fabric with warp stripes that appear like a piqué.











The fabric is then roughly dyed with India ink to create a complex and deep shade of black to charcoal to medium gray and indigo blue.














The motif of the coat’s shape is based on a prototype from Maquignon’s coats of the early 1900s, utilizing the beautifully crafted sleeves that follow the lines of the body, sloping the shoulders and curving the arms to meet the need for movement.











The beauty of French workwear lies in the three-dimensional, curvilinear designs created by patterns and sewing based on tailor-made work, and the expression of the fabrics that overflow with atmosphere. It is a completely different world from the tough and rugged workwear of the U.S. and U.K., where contrasting thick and sturdy stitches are double and triple stitched.











The French style, the cradle of fashion, was born for working people, and although it is supposed to be conceived in response to the demand for functionality, it does not forget “comfort” and “design sophistication”.











The silhouette is firm and voluminous, yet soft and curvy, blending with the precious fabric.












Deeply cut vents add even more expression to the larger hem circumference volume.










要所要所に色を添える、wrap over stitch。

Wrap over stitch to add color in key places.















The buttons, narrowly spaced and lined up in rows, are vintage deadstock buttons from Frence, and the combination of modern shapes that do not seem nearly 80 years old and two tones of gray add flavor and neutralize the weight of the antique, which can sometimes be too strong.











The buttonholes, lined up in rows just like the buttons, are hand-crafted with linen cords.











Lining sewn by hand. The uneven stitching, which conveys stoicism rather than hand warmth, the expression of the stitching wrinkles, and the contrast of the fabrics create a dry depth. The lining, woven in India, has a rustic texture and wrinkle charm of unbleached fabric of moderate thickness, creating a contrast with the outer fabric and a sense of cleanliness.














Blind stitching by hand to sew the linings together. It must be meaningful that we spent more than ten times as much time on a job that would take only a few minutes if sewn with a sewing machine.













The pockets are double-layered and attached by hand stitching on the inside to create a plump, rounded shape.










Hand-stitched stitches on some of the side and sleeve seam allowances. Dry handwork that discreetly asserts itself.













vintageのblack chambrayの裏襟には細かなステッチを。

Back collar with linen antique india ink dyed pique. Fine stitching.












To lighten the hem, the lining hem is floated instead of sewn. A deep turnover is added to give the right amount of volume, and hand-stitched accents are added.












The cuffs are also hand stitched. Double pockets found on Maquignon coats. This one mimics the most unusual shape of them all.












Vintage fabrics that have become like a phantom, and the forms of work clothes that are no longer made. It is a piece that highlights the individuality and presence of the wearer, created by fusing dry hand work and modernity.










肩幅 = 47cm

バスト= 60cm (脇下)

袖丈 = 60cm

着丈 = 98cm 

Front Fabric  = India Ink Dyed Irish Linen Cord Stripe / Linen
Back Fabric  = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth  / Cotton100%
Buttons     = Dead Stock French Resin Buttons

                       & Antique Fabric Covered Buttons






1950-19560 Vintage India Ink Dyed Pure Irish Linen Cord Stripe Fabric Made Maquignon Work Coat

[STANDARD By Manure Of Drawers] SOLD