Linen Fabric “Gris de Travil” Made Chore Work Paysan Coat

Linen Fabric  “Gris de Travil” Made Chore Work Paysan Coat



1950’s Vintage French Linen Fabric for “Gris de Travil” Made Chore Work Worker Paysan Coat




Old work clothes made in rural areas of France and other regions are full of a different kind of charm from the French work wear generally associated with them.












Workwear, which developed with the development of industry and commerce in urban and suburban areas from around the end of the 19th century, was the fruit of the Industrial Revolution and modernization, and was an industrial product that became a respectable commodity in itself, based on design and pattern making by experts with clothing knowledge and skills, and sewing and process control. The workwear itself was an industrial product that became a respectable commodity.

In particular, French workwear still has a unique charm with its three-dimensional and curved designs created by patterns and sewing based on tailor work, and its atmospheric expressions such as white and gray melange thread fabric (salt&pepper).











In the surrounding rural areas, on the other hand, it was not until the mid-1900s that people began to modernize their lifestyles and work clothes. France, which is the largest agricultural producer in the European Union (EU) with a food self-sufficiency rate of more than 120%, had developed from national dress, and various types of clothing and work clothes unique to France, such as biaude made by people engaged in cattle raising and smocks that became indoor wear and nightwear for farmers, were handmade by the people themselves or by tailors in the towns. The clothes were handmade by the people themselves or by tailors in the towns.











French smocks and biaudes are not only purchased as finished products, but many have been made by farmer’s wives and others who have continued to make them based on samples passed down from generation to generation. The prototypes, which have been handed down from before the development of specialized knowledge about clothing, such as patterns for making three-dimensional shapes that conform to the body, are made to unique specifications, using as little fabric as possible and combining parts made of straight lines that are easy to sew.














The prototype of this coat dates from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. It is composed of straight rectangular parts, and the gathers applied to the combination of straight lines ensure volume and mobility, suggesting a transitional period from farmer’s handmade smocks and other workwear to industrial and professionally made workwear that incorporated the tailor’s trend. The unique combination is tailored.











This coat has a very unusual construction, with the shoulder and yoke parts made of a single piece of fabric without any joints. The yoke part, which is joined at the back to the fabric, gradually changes direction as it goes around the front along the body, and the fabric is used on the bias from the shoulders to the chest, making it a very logical construction that conforms to the slope of the shoulders and also has elasticity that follows the movement of the arms.














The pattern that creates a natural shoulder form and connects the wide body width and shoulders in a well-balanced way is a uniquely French idea.











The body from the chest down is also uniquely designed, made in one piece from the front to the center of the back and connected at the back. The silhouette gently widens from the generous body width to the hem without any side joins, and the contrast between the relatively compact shoulders and the balance of the body deepens the unique flavor of the garment.











The unique and three-dimensional conception of the shoulder yoke is combined with an interesting tailoring that uses the width of the fabric as it is without wasting any fabric, and with a straight body that is just joined together. The two-piece sleeves that curve along the arms and the characteristic flat collar are combined here.











The collar, often seen in French workwear of this period, is not made of a single piece but is made of two strongly curved parts that are joined together to form a flat but voluminous collar that follows the body. This collar is also a uniquely French creation of a three-dimensional pattern conception.











The linen fabric chosen for the back of the collar is also an antique French linen fabric.










リネン大国フランスならではの軽い風合いの1950年代のvintageのリネン生地。ミディアムグレーとチャコールグレーのメランジ糸の経糸と、ミディアムグレーの緯糸で織られたSALT & PEPPERのリネン。

A 1950s vintage linen fabric with a light texture unique to the linen powerhouse of France. This SALT & PEPPER linen is woven with medium gray and charcoal gray melange yarn warp and medium gray weft yarns.










フランスで昔、工場や農作業等の仕事着や、小、中学校で図工授業の時の上っぱりに採用されていた、SALT & PEPPERの生地。チャコールやミディアムグレーをベースにしたメランジ糸を組み合わせた生地の色合いは、汚れが目立ちにくいという理由の機能以上に、奥行きのある味わい深さの魅力に溢れています。

SALT & PEPPER fabric was used in France in the past for work clothes in factories and farm work, etc., and for upper garments during arts and crafts classes at elementary and junior high schools. The coloring of the fabric, which is a combination of charcoal and medium gray-based melange yarns, is more than just functional for the reason that it does not show dirt easily; it is full of the charm of depth and tastefulness.














France is literally a linen powerhouse, as it still produces 70% of the world’s linen flux (flax). Flax is used not only for clothing, but also for home linens such as sheets and bedclothes, table linens such as tablecloths and napkins, and is the most familiar fiber to French people, more closely related to their daily lives than cotton. It is the most familiar fiber to the French people, more closely related to their daily lives than cotton.











In recent years, with the development of spinning technology in China and other countries, most of the processes other than the cultivation of raw materials (especially spinning by Junbun in China) are now done outside of France, and the spinning process to turn linen into yarn is now mostly done outside of France. However, in the 1950s, when this fabric was made, there were still fabrics that could be called genuine French linen that were grown, spun, and woven in France.











The change of fabrics due to the passage of time. The color spots and withered texture caused by soot stains and sunburn are the unique taste of old fabrics.











To lighten the hem, the lining hem is floated instead of sewn. A deep turnover is added to give the right amount of volume, and hand-stitched accents are added.











Lining with hand stitching. Uneven stitching that conveys stoicism instead of hand warmth, the expression of stitch wrinkles and fabric contrast create a dry depth.











The yoke portion of the fabric changes direction on the bias from the shoulders to the chest, a unique specification.











The powerful look of buttons arranged in a row at narrow intervals.












The buttons are vintage French corozo (mainly tagua palms from Ecuador). These quaint buttons are made by processing the endosperm part of the seeds inside the fruit.

Before the development of plastics from the 19th century to the 1950s, these buttons were actively made to take advantage of their smooth feel, hardness, durability, and dyeability.











vegetable ivoryの呼び名通りの乳白色の実を削って加工される何とも言えない丸みと、乳白色のベースを染める事で生まれる優しい色合いの魅力。見た目に反してしっかりした質感と重みを兼ね備えた、味わい深さを持ったボタンです。

As the name “vegetable ivory” implies, this button has an indescribable roundness created by shaving milky white berries, and the charm of the gentle coloring produced by dyeing the milky white base. Contrary to its appearance, this button has a solid texture and weight, and has a deep sense of taste.












Buttonholes are also all hand-stitched.











Vintage fabric and the form of work clothes that are no longer made. This coat was created by fusing the dry work of hands with modernity. It is a garment that accentuates the individuality and presence of the wearer.










サイズ 2

肩幅 = 43cm

バスト= 63cm (脇下)

袖丈 = 62cm

着丈 = 105cm 

Front Fabric = Salt & Pepper Linen/ Linen 100%

Back Fabric  = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth / Cotton100%

Buttons    =1950-1960 Vintage French Corozo Button

        & Antique Fabric Covered Button






1950’s Vintage French Linen Fabric for “Gris de Travil” Made Chore Work Worker Paysan Coat

[ALTERATION By Manure Of Drawers] SOLD