1996’s Vintage ALTERATION “CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL” Very Early in His Careers Rare Jacket
現代のファッションデザイナーの最高峰の一人として、不動の評価を受け続けるCAROL CHRISTIAN POELL。
長年培ったテイラーの技術を駆使したベーシックなフォルムの服作りのベースに、素材やディティールや縫製手法など、膨大な時間と労力を注ぎ込んだ前例のない全く新しい発想を加えた、コンセプチュアル且つユニークなプロダクト。
CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL continues to enjoy an unshakable reputation as one of the best fashion designers of our time.
He has taken the basic form of his clothing, which he has developed over many years, and added unprecedented and completely new ideas, including materials, detailing, and sewing techniques, which require an enormous amount of time and effort,The result is a conceptual and unique product.
通常はカットソーの縫製以外には、生地端部のほつれ止めとしてしか使われないオーバーロックミシンと0番手の極太糸を組み合わせた「SCAR-STITCHED」、何枚かのパーツを縫い合わせて立体化する身頃や袖などのパーツを、それぞれ1枚の生地からダーツ処理による立体化で形作る「DEAD END」、通常では縫えないほど硬く厚い皮を服にするためにタンニング工程の途中段階の水に浸した革の状態で縫製して形成する「Disjointed」。
SCAR-STITCHED” combines an overlock sewing machine, which is usually used only to stop fraying of fabric edges except for sewing cut-and-sew garments, and 0 count ultra-thick thread,
DEAD END”, which forms parts such as the body and sleeves, which are three-dimensional by sewing several parts together, from a single piece of fabric by three-dimensional dart processing,
Disjointed,” which is formed by sewing leather so hard and thick that it is not normally sewn, in the state of leather soaked in water during the tanning process in order to make it into clothing.
独自の配合で創り出したラバーに服や靴の下部を浸し、ラバーの垂れ下がる形状をそのまま取り込んだ「DRIP RUBBER」など、深い知識と経験に基づく、実験的で先進性に満ちたテクニック。
他にもINNER VALUE、LETTERBOX POCKET、TAPED SEAM、INVISIBLE-SEAM、SELF-EDGE、EAR POCKET、OBJECT DYEDetc.etc.etc。いつまでも古びる事の無い独自性と革新性を保つ彼らが開発した様々なディティールと技術とメッセージ。
Experimental and progressive techniques based on in-depth knowledge and experience, such as “DRIP RUBBER,” in which the lower part of clothes and shoes are dipped in rubber created by a unique formula, and the shape of the rubber hanging down is incorporated as it is.
Other experimental and advanced techniques include INNER VALUE, LETTERBOX POCKET, TAPED SEAM, INVISIBLE-SEAM, SELF-EDGE, EAR POCKET, OBJECT DYEDetc.etc., etc., etc.
The various details, techniques, and messages developed by these artists, who maintain their originality and innovation, will never become old-fashioned.
オーストリア出身のCAROL CHRISTIAN POELLは、洋服工場を営む継父のもと、テーラーの作る服と技術に興味を抱きオーストリア・グラーツでファッションデザインを、ヴェネチアのファッションコスチューム総合大学で紳士、婦人服のテーラーに関する学位を修得。後、ミラノのドムスアカデミーでもファッションデザインを習得。
CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL, a native of Austria, was interested in the clothes and techniques of tailors under her stepfather, who ran a clothing factory. She studied fashion design in Graz, Austria, and tailoring for men and women at the Fashion and Costume University in Venice. Later, he also studied fashion design at the Domus Academy in Milan.
さらにイタリア、モンテグラナーロの老舗シューズメーカー、「プレミアータ」のデザイナーとして靴作りのノウハウを得た後、フリーのデザイナーとして活動し1995年に友人と自身の会社を設立。翌1996年秋冬シーズンに自身の名前を冠した「CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL」メンズコレクションでデビューしました。
After gaining shoemaking know-how as a designer for “Premiata,” a long-established shoe manufacturer in Montegranaro, Italy, he worked as a freelance designer and established his own company with a friend in 1995. He made his debut with the men’s collection “CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL” bearing his own name for the following Fall-Winter season in 1996.
その「CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL」のデビューコレクションであるファーストシーズンの1996年製造のすごく貴重で希少な1着をALTERATIONしたジャケットです。このファーストシーズンのコレクションは、まだ取扱店舗も製造数も非常に少ない時代。
This jacket is an ALTERATION of a very precious and rare piece manufactured in 1996, the first season of the debut collection of “CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL”. This first season’s collection still had very few stores that handled it and very few pieces manufactured.
日本でのCAROL CHRISTIAN POELL取り扱いの第一人者である「Lift」でのCCPの取り扱い開始は1998年のS/Sシーズンからという事を考えると、この1着は日本未発売だった可能性が高いかもしれません。
Considering that the handling of CCP at “Lift”, the first company to handle CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL in Japan, started in the S/S season of 1998, there is a high possibility that this one garment was not released in Japan.
少し長めの丈で緩やかにウエストが絞られた体に沿う絶妙なフォルム。細くても腕の動きを決して妨げない絶妙な袖の曲線と、肩周りの設計。手の甲が半分隠れる特徴的な長めの袖丈。27年前の最初期作でありながら、今現在のC.C.P.のものづくりの基本が詰め込まれ、表現されたた1着。
Exquisite form with a slightly longer length and gently cinched waist that follows the body. The exquisite curve of the sleeves, which are thin but never obstruct the movement of the arms, and the design around the shoulders. The characteristic long sleeve length that half covers the back of the hand. 27 years ago, this was the first C.C.P. garment, but it is one that expresses and incorporates the basics of C.C.P.’s manufacturing today.
樹脂コーティングされた高番手、高密度に織った軽い風合いの生地。レザー表面のような鈍い光沢と滑り感がありながら、軽くしなやかな風合い。
Resin-coated, high count, densely woven fabric with a light texture. It has a light and supple texture with a dull luster and a slippery feel like leather surfaces.
グレー味がかった深いネイビーの落ち着いた色合い。
A calm shade of deep navy with grayish tints.
襟や身頃、袖などの縫い目に用いられているAMFステッチ(ピックステッチ)ミシンでの星止め風ステッチの多用は、テーラーリング技術に精通していたCAROL CHRISTIAN POELLならではの先進的なアイデアと言えると思われます。
The extensive use of blind edgestitch-like stitches with AMF stitch (pick stitch) sewing machines used for seams such as the collar, body, and sleeves is considered to be an advanced idea unique to CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL, who was well versed in tailoring techniques.
縫製速度が遅く低効率でメンテナンスが難しい上に高額なこのミシンは、このジャケットが作られた頃には一般的にはまだ普及しておらず、使用される場面はごく一部のテーラードジャケットの襟周りのステッチ程度だった時代。そんな中でカジュアルなカテゴリーに分類されるこのジャケットのような服の、様々な部分にこのミシンを使ったことは彼ならではの発想。
This sewing machine, which is slow, inefficient, difficult to maintain, and expensive, was not yet in widespread use when this jacket was made, and was only used for stitching around the collar of a small number of tailored jackets. It was his unique idea to use this sewing machine for various parts of a garment such as this jacket, which is classified in the casual category.
フロントのダーツの内側に身返しを付けて形成されたポケット。
Pockets formed with a facing and body back inside the front darts.
.
一般的なウェルトポケットのような口布が無く、後年の[DEAD END]に通ずるようなダーツ状のミニマルな構造。
The minimalist dart-like structure is similar to that of [DEAD END] in later years, with no welt pockets.
着用年月の痕跡が残る古いポケットの袋布は取り外し、rustic cottonで作り替え。
The old pocket bag cloth, which shows signs of wear, was removed and replaced with rustic cotton.
ダメージのあった部分の補修に加え、全体のバランスを考察して加えたハンドステッチと Wrap Around Hand Stitchの彩。
In addition to repairing the damaged areas, hand stitches and Wrap Around Hand Stitch were added for overall balance.
メタリックな風合いと特徴的な開閉時の少し硬い感触が逆に信頼感を増す、ririの2way open end zipper。
The riri 2-way open end zipper has a metallic texture and a characteristic slightly hard feel when opened and closed, which conversely increases the sense of trust.
カフスと裾のストラップ状のタブは、端部に磁石が縫い閉じられ、反対側に縫いつけられたプレートに吸着させて留めつけるユニークな仕様。
The strap-like tabs at the cuffs and hems have magnets sewn into the ends, which are adsorbed to a plate sewn on the opposite side for a unique fastening.
赤とチャコールのリネン糸で織り上げた、タブの磁石部分のダメージへの魅せる補修のdarning。
Woven with red and charcoal linen yarns, fascinating repair darning to the damage on the magnetic part of the tabs.
長年の着用の痕跡が色濃く残るライニングは取り外し、インドで織られた適度な張りとシワ感を持つ素朴な糸の表情が魅力的なコットンブロードで作り替え。
The lining, which bears the marks of many years of wear, is removed and replaced with a cotton broadcloth woven in India with a rustic yarn expression that has just the right amount of tension and wrinkle.
ライニングを縫い付けるライトグレーのメランジ調のハンドステッチ。手仕事故の意図せぬ自然なステッチの乱れ、柔らかな縫いしわが味わいを深めてくれます。
Light gray melange-style hand stitching seams the lining. The unintentional natural disorder of the stitches and soft stitching wrinkles caused by handwork deepen the flavor of the product.
裏地と表地の洗いざらしの生み出すしわ、表地と生成りの清潔感のあるコントラスト。
The wrinkles created by the washing of the lining and the outer fabric, and the clean contrast between the outer fabric and the raw color.
内ポケットには、オリジナルのポケットに付けられていたririファスナーを移設。
The riri zipper that was attached to the original pocket has been transferred to the inside pocket.
紙の上やデジタル画面の中からは、決して生み出されることのない、流行やブランドや値段の多寡に惑わされない価値観を持った方々の、その人自身を魅せる衣です。
It is a garment that fascinates people who have values that are never created on paper or digital screens, and who are not confused by trends, brands, or prices.
Size 2 (イタリアサイズ表記=46 しかし非常にタイトなフィッティング)
Shoulder width = 40cm
Bust = 48 cm (underarm)
Sleeve length = 62 cm
Length = 70 cm
Italy／Japan
Front Fabric = Resin Coating Cotton / Cotton 89%/ Resine 11%
Back Fabric = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth / Cotton 100%
Zip Fastener = “riri” Metal Fastener & “riri” 2way open end zipper
STOREへのリンク
1996’s Vintage ALTERATION “CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL” Very Early in His Careers Rare Jacket
[ALTERATION By Manure of Drawers] SOLD
