Vintage ALTERATION Patch and Stitch Jacket In Cotton Ribbed Knit by “DRIES VAN NOTEN”

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Early 1990s Vintage ALTERATION Patch and Stitch Jacket In Cotton Ribbed Knit by “DRIES VAN NOTEN”

ゆったりとしたシルエットと、柔らかでふくよかな風合いが90年代らしさを感じさせるDRIES VAN NOTENのニット。

The relaxed silhouette and soft, full texture of this DRIES VAN NOTEN knit give it a 90s feel.

その上質で繊細な味わいを感じさせる糸で編まれたリブ編みのニットをALTERATIONしたジャケットです。

This jacket is ALTERATION of ribbed knitwear knitted with yarns that evoke its fine and delicate taste.

アウターとしての機能、着やすさを高めるために内側につけたライニング。ラスティックなコットンブロードは、適度な張りとシワ感が有り、インドで織られた素朴な糸の表情が魅力です。

Lining attached to the inside to enhance its function as outerwear and ease of wear. Rustic cotton broadcloth has a moderate tension and wrinkle, and the rustic look of the yarn woven in India is appealing.

アウターの機能を高める丸いフォルムと膨らみが味のある内ポケット。味わいと清潔感を与えるコントラスト。

The round shape and bulging inside pocket tastefully enhance the outerwear’s functionality. Contrasts that give a sense of taste and cleanliness.

ポケットの無いボディの左右の両サイドにポケットを作成。アウターとしての機能をさらに充足させるポイントです。

Pockets are created on both the left and right sides of the body without pockets. This is a point that further fulfills the function as outerwear.

裾や袖口には、アクセントを兼ねたwrap around stitchを。

Wrap around stitches at the hem and cuffs serve as accents.

インディゴやIndian inkで染められたlinenやSalt & Pepperなど両方の前たてに縫い付けたvintageやantiqueの様々な生地。

Various vintage and antique fabrics are sewn on both fronts, including linen and Salt & Pepper dyed in Indigo and Indian ink.

patchの入り組んだ形と生地感、色合いのコントラストのバランスの妙味。

The intricate shape of PATCH, the fabric texture, and the odd balance of contrasting shades.

パッチワークに良く用いられる端部のほつれた切りっぱなしや、ラフなステッチによるpatchではなく、1-1.5mmの細やかなステッチと控えめなコントラストの糸で縁取られた生地の集積。

This is not a patch with frayed edges or rough stitching, as is often the case in patchwork, but an accumulation of fabrics trimmed with 1-1.5 mm fine stitches and contrasting threads in subdued colors.

へムのpatchが端から飛び出して伸びる形もユニークです。

The shape of the hemming patch, which extends out from the edge, is also unique.

ライニングを留め付けたvintageの太いリネンコード。手仕事ゆえのステッチの意図せぬ自然な乱れが生むリズム。

Vintage thick linen cords fastened to the lining. The rhythm created by the unintentional and natural disorder of the stitches due to the handwork.

DRIES VAN NOTENは、仕立て屋の家の祖父、複数のブティックの経営者だった父の経済的にも環境的に恵まれたなかで、自然に服飾ビジネスへの興味を育み実行した人物。

DRIES VAN NOTEN is a man who naturally nurtured and implemented his interest in the clothing business through the economic and environmental advantages of his grandfather, who came from a family of tailors, and his father, who was the owner of several boutiques.

裕福な家庭の子供を医師、政治家、法曹界などへ進ませるための特別な学校で、親の意向とは異なる自分の進みたい服飾ビジネスへの道を選択する権利を得るために、大学進学までに必要な単位と課程を12歳で取得した明晰な頭脳を持つ。

A special school for children from wealthy families to go on to become doctors, politicians, legal professionals, etc., he is a clear-headed man who earned the credits and courses necessary to enter college at the age of 12 in order to earn the right to choose the path he wanted to take in the clothing business, which was different from his parents’ wishes.

1986年に仲間と共に参加したロンドンファッションウィークの｢ブリティッシュ・デザイナーズ・ショー｣でゲリラ的なショーを開き好評を博した「アントワープの6人」。しかし注目は集めたものの、実際には商品化の依頼が殺到したわけではなく、アントワープの6人」がモード界を席巻するにはこの後5年以上の弛まぬ研鑽を必要とした。

In 1986, the “Antwerp Six” and their friends participated in the “British Designers Show” at London Fashion Week, where they held a guerrilla-style show that was well received. However, although they attracted attention, they were not inundated with requests for commercialization, and it took more than five years of continuous study for the “Antwerp 6” to take the fashion world by storm.

情熱的というより冷静で、挑発的というより心の内側に光を与えるデザイン。DRIES　VAN NOTENは、病的な完璧主義者であり、2018年にスペインのPUIG社に良好な関係性のもとに株式譲渡を行うまでの30年近い期間、自身でビジネスのあらゆる面を管理し自己資金で会社の運営を行なってきた優秀な経営者でもあります。

A design that is more sober than passionate, more provocative than provocative, and more illuminating to the inner mind.　DRIES VAN NOTEN is a pathological perfectionist and a brilliant manager who managed every aspect of the business himself and self-financed the company for nearly 30 years before transferring his shares to the Spanish company PUIG on good terms in 2018.

ニットの伸び縮みする良さと、柔らかさを邪魔しないために、ライニングの裾はとめずに浮かせた状態、印象を軽やかに。

In order not to interfere with the elasticity and softness of the knit, the hem of the lining is left floating a light impression.

ボタンはフランスのヴィンテージのcorozo(主にエクアドルのタグワ椰子)。実の中の種子の中の胚乳部分を加工して作られた趣のあるボタン。

19世紀から1950年代にかけてのプラスティック開発以前に、滑らかな手触りと硬さ丈夫さ染色性の良さを利用して、盛んに作られていたボタンです。

The buttons are vintage French corozo (mainly tagua palms from Ecuador). These quaint buttons are made by processing the endosperm part of the seeds inside the fruit.

Before the development of plastics from the 19th century to the 1950s, these buttons were actively made to take advantage of their smooth feel, hardness, durability, and dyeability.

vegetable ivoryの呼び名通りの乳白色の実を削って加工される何とも言えない丸みと、乳白色のベースを染める事で生まれる優しい色合いの魅力。見た目に反してしっかりした質感と重みを兼ね備えた、味わい深さを持ったボタンです。

As the name “vegetable ivory” implies, this button has an indescribable roundness created by shaving milky white berries, and the charm of the gentle coloring produced by dyeing the milky white base. Contrary to its appearance, this button has a solid texture and weight, and has a deep sense of taste.