Vintage Mackintosh Cloth Made Riding Coat by “TRADITIONAL WEATHER WEAR LTD.”

Vintage Mackintosh Cloth Made Riding Coat by “TRADITIONAL WEATHER WEAR LTD.”


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1970’s Vintage Vulcanized Rubber Rubberized  Mackintosh Cloth Made British Riding Coat by “TRADITIONAL WEATHER WEAR LTD.”





Old Mackintosh riding coat. Made of lightweight McIntosh cloth with thin rubber sandwiched between high-density woven cotton twill. This is a piece from a time when Mackintosh was looking to change from utility wear to street wear for waterproofing and windproofing.











The volume and feel of Mackintosh’s unique rubber-boyon fabric is in such good condition that it is hard to believe that it is more than 50 years old. Even deadstocks often show peeling and hardening of the rubber, and it is rare to find a VINTAGE in perfect condition.










今から200年も前の1823年に スコットランドの科学者だったCharles Macintoshが発明した防水生地と製法を、今まで受け継いできたマッキントッシュの歴史は、カシミアやツイードのようにスコットランドの伝統産業と呼んで良いものです。

The history of Mackintosh, which has inherited the waterproof fabric and manufacturing method invented by Charles Macintosh, a Scottish scientist, 200 years ago in 1823, can be called a traditional Scottish industry like cashmere and tweed.










マッキントッシュと同じように英国を代表するBarbourの創業は1894年。イングランド北東部のSouth Shieldsで、北海の悪天候の下で働く漁師など労働者のための実用着として作った「Beacon」が始まりです。Barbourはその一番の売りであるワックスコットン(オイルスキン)を自分達で開発した訳ではありません。帆船の帆の材料として作り出された生地を、帆船から機関船への移行で帆のニーズが先細りになり帆布以外にガーメント製造への進出を画策していた、セイルメーカーのWebster’s社から提供を受けたのです。

Barbour, which, like Mackintosh, is a leading British brand, was founded in 1894. Barbour did not develop waxed cotton (oilskin), its main selling point, on its own. Barbour did not develop the waxed cotton (oilskin) itself, but took it from Webster’s, a sail manufacturer that was planning to expand into garment manufacturing as the need for sails tapered off with the shift from sailboats to engineered ships.










Charles Macintoshがマンチェスターで設立したCharles Macintosh India Rubber Companyは、当初の製品の生地のゴムのきつい匂いや、剥離、溶解などの問題から不安定な経営状態が続きました。その後、独創的な発明でゴム工業を確立させ、イギリスのゴム工業の父と呼ばれた発明家であるThomas Hancockが共同経営者となり、製品は改良と安定が進んでいくことになりました。

Charles Macintosh India Rubber Company, founded by Charles Macintosh in Manchester, was in a precarious business situation due to the harsh smell of rubber, peeling, and melting of the fabric of its initial products. Later, Thomas Hancock, an inventor who established the rubber industry with his ingenious inventions and was called the father of the British rubber industry, became a partner in the company, and the products were improved and stabilized.











At this time, Mackintosh did not manufacture many finished garments under its own brand or company name, but mainly supplied fabrics. Garment production was the preserve of the many small businesses and street tailors who purchased fabrics and sold them under their own store names and brands.











“MAC” became the name for raincoats in general in England because the abbreviation for the fabric, “MAC,” which would not have been available throughout the country if only one company had produced it, was used by the various companies throughout the country that bought the fabric.











Although they were popular as riding coats and raincoats among affluent customers who enjoyed horseback riding and could afford to live comfortably, their spread to general customers was limited due to their high cost, difficulty in handling, heavy fabric, and uncomfortable fit (rubber was also hard and heavy at that time). However, the waterproof and windproof performance of the rubber inserts met the needs of the police and military. 











The large demand from military officers, which originated as a material for airships and balloons during World War I and as waterproof clothing and tarpaulins for the army, continued to generate demand until around 1970 as an official product of the British police and British railroads.










ミリタリーやBR向けのMACは短期間に大量に作る必要があったので、生地もマッキントッシュ本社1社だけでは作りきれず、他社で製造された物の方が数量的にははるかに多く流通しました。Charles Macintosh の発明した生地の特許は、1837年に失効していましたから、技術を受け継いだ様々な会社が生地と製品を製造し続けました

Since MACs for military and BR applications needed to be made in large quantities in a short period of time, the fabrics could not be made by one company alone, and those manufactured by other companies were distributed in much larger quantities. The patent for the fabric invented by Charles Macintosh expired in 1837, so various companies continued to manufacture fabrics and products using the technology.











McIntosh was used extensively in these supplied goods. However, these government-issued and supplied items were replaced by new nylon and polyurethane fibers and high-performance materials such as Gore-Tex, which were developed one after another with the modernization after World War II. Unable to resist the trend of evolution and technological development of the times, the companies that manufactured products using McIntosh fabrics went out of business or went bankrupt one after another.










開発元であるCharles Macintosh India Rubber Companyも、1925年にはDunlop によって買収され、2000年には工場を閉鎖してしまいました。共同経営者だったThomas Hancockの会社「Talworth Ltd(=1974年からは「Traditional Weatherwear Ltd」)も、90年代には先行きの見えない状態へと転落してしまいました。

The developer, Charles Macintosh India Rubber Company, was acquired by Dunlop in 1925 and closed its plant in 2000. Thomas Hancock’s company, Talworth Ltd (=Traditional Weatherwear Ltd since 1974), also fell into disrepair in the 1990s.











Barbour, which also started out with waterproof clothing for fishermen and established itself through government and military products, developed not only practical clothing but also general clothing from the 1930s and established its reputation and achievements with “International,” “Bedale,” “Beaufort,” and others. Mackintosh, on the other hand, started late, had no registered brands, and had multiple companies involved in manufacturing and distribution.










そうした中で、Traditional Weatherwear Ltdの工場スタッフからスタートした社員の一人、英国に夢を求めて渡ってきたウクライナ移民2世のDaniel Dunkoが、新たな販路の開発とブランドの確立に着手しました。それまで、生地の名前やその生地名から派生したコートの総称としての一般名称としての“MAC”は浸透していても、ブランドとしてのマッキントッシュは存在していませんでした。

Under such circumstances, Daniel Dunko, a second-generation Ukrainian immigrant who had come to England in search of his dream and was one of the factory staff of Traditional Weatherwear Ltd, started to develop new sales channels and establish a brand. Until then, “MAC” as a generic name for fabrics and coats derived from those fabrics had been widely known, but Mackintosh as a brand had not existed.










その状態を変革するために「Mackintosh」の商標を登録し(それまで誰もやれなかった)、苦労の末その権利を確立しました。類似品を排除するとともに、生地からガーメントまでを統括し、高級ブランドとしてのリ・ブランディングを行うことに成功しました。そして「Traditional Weatherwear Ltd」から株を買い取り、2000年に「Mackintosh Ltd」として再独立を果たした後、2007年からは日本の八木通商の傘下となっています。

To change this state of affairs, the company registered the trademark “Mackintosh” (which no one had done before) and established the rights to it after much hard work. In addition to eliminating similar products, the company succeeded in rebranding itself as a luxury brand, overseeing everything from fabrics to garments. After purchasing the shares from “Traditional Weatherwear Ltd.” and re-establishing itself as “Mackintosh Ltd” in 2000, the company has been under the umbrella of Yagi Tsusho in Japan since 2007.










ライニングはマッキントッシュと同じく、イギリスが生んだ高機能素材のVentile Cotton clothです。英国空軍のパイロットが撃墜などで冷たい海に投げ出された時にも、水の浸入を防ぐとともに内部の空気を逃さず浮力を確保し、救助を待てるようにと考えられた生地という事が、よく知られています。

The lining is made of Ventile Cotton cloth, a highly functional material produced in England, just like Mackintosh. It is well known that this fabric was designed to prevent water from entering the fabric and to keep the air inside the fabric buoyant and ready for rescue when Royal Air Force pilots were thrown into the cold sea after being shot down or otherwise thrown out.











The fabric is made by weaving high count twin yarns of ultra-long staple cotton into an ultra-high-density weave in both the warp and weft, and the synergistic effect of the weave density and the fine fluff of the finest cotton gives the fabric a triple combination of waterproofness, moisture permeability, and breathability that blocks water from the outside while allowing sweat and moisture vapor from the inside to escape. In addition, the fabric itself has a good texture with a unique firmness and flat surface.











The five eyelets on the sides for ventilation are not only practical, but also have an exceptional presence as an icon to indicate that it is a Mackintosh cloth product.USELESS (useless) pockets are another accent of this coat.











Ventilation holes are also provided in the liner, and soft, bulging inner pockets with bonding fabric trim are set.










ゴムをボンディングしたマッキントッシュクロスの面白さは、防水性や生地独特のボリューム感の他に、ゴムでボンディング(貼り合わせ)されることで生地の切断部がほつれない(ほつれにくい)面白さがあります。フラップの裏側や、作り直したスリーブタブもVentile clothでトリミング。

The interesting thing about rubber-bonded McIntosh cloth is that, in addition to its waterproofing and the fabric’s unique volume, the rubber bonding (lamination) prevents the fabric from fraying (fraying resistance).The underside of the flap and the reworked sleeve tabs are also trimmed in Ventile cloth.











In this coat, taking advantage of the “fray-resistant” characteristics of this mackintosh cloth, the hem, cuffs, and front edge are cut open, along with the ventile side of the lining, adding lightness to the impression of the edges, which tend to look heavy because of the volume and power of this fabric, and the sharp edges that are interesting because of this fabric. The fabric is also lightweight.










プラスティックのオリジナルボタンと取り替えた、英国の1950-1960年代のVintageのデッドストックのCow Hornのボタン。一般的な角のボタンのほとんどは水牛の角から作られているもので、主としてアジア圏の水牛の角をアジア圏で加工したものです。このボタンは、英国の有名紳士服ブランドの注文により特別に作られた、英国の牛(ヘレフォードやアバディーンアンガス)の角を使って英国で作られたものです。

Vintage deadstock Cow Horn buttons from the 1950s-1960s in the UK, replacing the original plastic buttons. Most common horn buttons are made from buffalo horn, mainly processed in Asian countries from Asian buffalo horn. These buttons were made in England from English cow (Hereford or Aberdeen Angus) horn, specially made to order for a famous English menswear brand.











The thickness of 4-6 mm, the leather finish on the reverse side, the natural mixture of brown, black, milky white, translucent beige, and muddy beige in the corners, the size of 27 mm, the four widely spaced large button holes that also give a modern impression, the rounded shape that has only been roughly shaved off, and the texture that makes use of the bare look. The texture of the buttons is a gem from more than 60 years ago that has nothing but power and quality in every way.










身頃に接着する方法で作られていたポケットは、接着の脆化が進行していたため取り外し、全体をVentile clothで新たに作り直しています。こうすることで掃除しても残るポケットの中の埃や、こびりついた得体の知れない時間の残滓も全て取り除いています。

The pockets, which had been glued to the body, were removed because the glue had become brittle, and the whole piece was remade entirely from Ventile cloth. In this way, all the dust in the pockets that remained after cleaning and the unidentifiable residue of time that had stuck to them were removed.








Label printed with manufacturer’s care label and model number, etc.Macintosh without the K is a common Scottish surname and the name of the inventor of this fabric. However, what MACINTOSHES stands for on the label is not an indication of a manufacturing company or brand, but rather a general term for anything made of Macintosh cloth. A label that shows MACKINTOSHES with a K, as on this label, is a sign of something made by the main body of Mackintosh.











The foot strap is one of the distinctive details of the riding coat. These straps are used to stop the hem of the coat from rolling up too far on the legs when straddling the horse. A threading opening is created in the liner so that the strap can actually be used by threading it through the front from the inside.











Another characteristic detail of the riding coat is the slit cover, which folds into a pleated pattern and spreads wide. This detail was designed to prevent the hem from spreading and getting the buttocks wet when the rider straddles the horse on a rainy day.











A modern style that cannot be created with vintage clothes as they are, and a time-worn depth that cannot be found in newly created contemporary pieces. A piece that combines both of these qualities creates a style of its own that neither vintage nor new clothes can create.










サイズ 2 (M~L相当)
バスト= 60cm (脇下)

裄丈(ラグランスリーブ)= 87cm (セットインの場合の 肩幅50cm 袖丈60 cm相当 ) 

着丈 = 90cm 

Front Fabric = Cotton Bonding Vulcanized Rubber Mackintosh Cloth / Cotton&Rubber

Lining Fabric = Ventile Cotton cloth / Cotton 100%
Button = 1950-1960 Vintage British Cow  Horn Button (Dead stock&Random choice)

     & Antique Fabric Covered Button






1970’s Vintage Vulcanized Rubber Rubberized  Mackintosh Cloth Made British Riding Coat by “TRADITIONAL WEATHER WEAR LTD.”

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