Rusty Linen Made Chore Work Paysan Stand Collar Jacket

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1920-1930 Antique French Old Pure Rusty Linen Made Chore Work Paysan Stand Collar Jacket

フランスで仕立てられた、100年近い時間と日差しを蓄えこんだecruの色褪せたリネンのワークジャケット。

Tailored in France, this faded linen work jacket from ecru has accumulated nearly 100 years of time and sunlight

随所に残る汚れと褪色、枯れた風合いの濃淡模様と、擦り切れ破れなど着込まれたダメージがこのジャケットの辿ってきた時間を色濃く映し出しています。

The stains and fading that remain here and there, the shading pattern with a withered texture, and the damage caused by wear and tear reflect the time that this jacket has spent on the market.

ジャケットを解体する時に小麦の殻や獣毛がポケットの底や見返しの隅に付いていた事から、この一枚は都市部の労働者の物というよりは、周辺部（＝田舎）の農夫や下働きに就いていた人達が着ていた物なのだろう思います。

When the jacket was dismantled, wheat husks and animal hair were found at the bottom of the pockets and in the corners of the back of the jacket, suggesting that this piece was worn by farmers and menial laborers in the periphery (= countryside) rather than by urban workers.

このジャケットが作られたのは、第一次大戦後の長引く不況にまだまだ喘いでいた1920-1930年代のフランス。

This jacket was made in France in the 1920s and 1930s, when the country was still struggling with a prolonged post-World War I depression.

細く紡がれた適度な張りのある柔らかなリネン生地は、皺のふくよかさと軽さがリラックスした表情を漂わせてくれます。

The soft linen fabric is thinly spun with just the right amount of tension, and its wrinkled fullness and lightness give it a relaxed look.

綿を栽培するには気候が寒冷すぎて、インド航路が確立されるまでは、地中海経由のアラブ圏からの輸入によるものしか綿が手に入らなかったフランスにとって、身近な衣料素材は寒冷な気候での栽培に適した亜麻と、食料としての役割も兼ねる羊の羊毛と羊皮、同じく食料の副産物の牛皮などでした。

The climate was too cold to cultivate cotton, and until the establishment of the Indian route, the only cotton available in France came from imports from the Arab world via the Mediterranean Sea. For them, the only familiar clothing materials were flax, which was suitable for cultivation in the cold climate, wool and sheepskin from sheep, which also served as food, and cowhide, which was also a byproduct of the food supply.

機械技術が整備されたとはいえ、まだまだ職人の勘や経験に則って処理し、糸を紡ぎ、織り上げた時代の古い生地。

Although machine technology has been developed, these old fabrics were still processed, spun, and woven according to the intuition and experience of craftsmen.

スタンドカラーという粋な襟周りでありながら、ファッションからの要求とは無縁の実用的な日常着であり仕事着であり全てを賄う一張羅の一枚。

It has a chic stand collar, but it is a piece of one-piece clothing that is practical everyday wear, work wear, and all-around wear, unrelated to the demands of fashion.

工場の量産品ではなく、街のテーラーなどで仕立てられたような丁寧な縫製と仕立てのジャケット。上質なリネン生地とともに、要所に芯地がちゃんと使われた、細かなステッチで縫い上げられた上品な仕立てのワークジャケット。

This jacket is not mass-produced in a factory, but is carefully sewn and tailored as if it were tailored by a tailor in town. This is an elegantly tailored work jacket made of high quality linen fabric with fine stitching and interlining in key areas.

ダメージのパッチ、ダーニング、穴かがり、刺し子。新たに作られた服には逆立ちしても手に入れられない、VINTAGEの魅力と風合いが今と結びついたハイブリッドは、セピア色の写真の世界を懐かしむだけの服とは一線を画します。

Patches of damage, darning, hole cutting, and stitching. Unobtainable in a newly created garment standing on its head, the hybrid of VINTAGE’s charm and texture combined with the present is distinctly different from clothes that only nostalgically recall the sepia-toned world of photographs.

ダメージに上から生地をのせてpatchするのではなく、象嵌細工のように生地をくり抜きながらモザイク状に生地をpatchしていくフランス独特のpatch work=travail de patchで描き出した象嵌模様。

The inlaid pattern is drawn by the unique French patch work = travail de patch, where the fabric is patched in a mosaic pattern while hollowing out the fabric like inlaid work, instead of patching the damage by putting the fabric on top.

元のボタン間隔の間に、ボタンホールを新たに作って増やし間隔を詰めて普通の2倍の数のボタンが並ぶインパクトのある顔つき。

The face has an impact with twice the normal number of buttons lined up between the original button spacing, with the buttonholes newly created and increased and the spacing tightened.

ボタンはフランスのヴィンテージのcorozo(主にエクアドルのタグワ椰子)。実の中の種子の中の胚乳部分を加工して作られた趣のあるボタン。

19世紀から1950年代にかけてのプラスティック開発以前に、滑らかな手触りと硬さ丈夫さ染色性の良さを利用して、盛んに作られていたボタンです。

The buttons are vintage French corozo (mainly tagua palms from Ecuador). These quaint buttons are made by processing the endosperm part of the seeds inside the fruit.

Before the development of plastics from the 19th century to the 1950s, these buttons were actively made to take advantage of their smooth feel, hardness, durability, and dyeability.

vegetable ivoryの呼び名通りの乳白色の実を削って加工される何とも言えない丸みと、乳白色のベースを染める事で生まれる優しい色合いの魅力。見た目に反してしっかりした質感と重みを兼ね備えた、味わい深さを持ったボタンです。

As the name “vegetable ivory” implies, this button has an indescribable roundness created by shaving milky white berries, and the charm of the gentle coloring produced by dyeing the milky white base. Contrary to its appearance, this button has a solid texture and weight, and has a deep sense of taste.

ウエストポケットのフラップの裏側は、新たにrustic cottonで作り替えています。

The back side of the waist pocket flap has been newly reworked in rustic cotton.

裏をつけて2重にしたうえで、内側を手で掬い縫いして身頃に縫い付ける事で、ふくよかな質感のあるフォルムにした胸ポケット。

The breast pocket is lined and double-layered, and the inside is scoop-stitched by hand and sewn to the body to give it a full, textured form.

丸いフォルムと膨らみが味のある内ポケット。

The round shape and bulge of the inner pocket are tasteful.

ライニングしたラスティックなコットンブロードは、適度な張りとシワ感が有り、素朴な糸の表情が魅力です。

The rustic cotton broadcloth lining has just the right amount of tension and wrinkle, and the rustic look of the yarn is appealing.

liningの取り付けと裾まわりの手の仕事。生地を丹念に縫い止めたステッチの手仕事ゆえの自然な乱れは豊かな趣を与える時間の結晶です。

Hand work on the lining and around the hem. The natural disorder of the stitches, which are painstakingly sewn into the fabric by hand, is the crystallization of time giving a rich flavor.

背中心やサイド、袖の縫割りの縫い目の一部に施した手縫のステッチ。控えめに主張する乾いた手仕事。

Hand-sewn stitches on the center back, sides, and some of the seams on the sleeves. Dry handwork that makes a modest statement.

手仕事の温っぽさを打ち消した顔立ちが古いけれども新しい。

The face is old, but new, with the warmth of handwork canceled out.

防水、高発汗、強靭、難燃。素材はどんどん高機能になり、形も運動性や作業効率を追求したものへと進化を続けてきたけれど、ファッション的には退化しているに違いないワークウェアの世界。

Waterproof, perspiration-proof, tough, and flame-retardant. Materials have become more and more sophisticated, and shapes have continued to evolve in pursuit of mobility and work efficiency, but the world of workwear must be degenerating in terms of fashion.

経てきた時間を映す陰影と、ふくよかな皺を纏う1着。セピア色の写真の世界を懐かしむ服とは一線を画し,新たに作られた服には手に入れられない、antiqueの魅力と風合いが今と結びついた1着です。

This is a piece of clothing with shades that reflect the time that has passed, and wrinkles that are plump. It is a piece of clothing that is distinctly different from the sepia-toned, nostalgic clothing of the photographic world, and has a charm and texture of antique that you cannot get from newly created clothing.