Antique Lots of Hand Patched Doeskin French Old Tailor Made Jacket

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Early 20th Century Antique Lots of Hand Patched Doeskin Fabric Made ALTERATIONs French Old Tailor Made Jacket

全く同じ物がほとんど無く、あっても数がごく少数なのでまず人と被らない(=個性的？)、着込まれた事による経年変化の面白さ、今の物には無いデザインやパターンなどの新鮮さ、ヴィンテージを着る＝ちょっとおしゃれ上級者？というイメージ、希少性などなどヴィンテージが選ばれる理由は様々です。

There are very few items that are exactly the same, and even if there are, they are very few in number, so you can’t wear the same item as others (=unique?). There are many reasons why people choose vintage clothes, such as: the interesting change with age due to being worn, the freshness of designs and patterns that are not found in current items, the image of wearing vintage clothes = being a little more fashionable, and the rarity. There are various reasons why people choose vintage clothes, such as the image of being a fashionable person who wears vintage clothes, and rarity.

例えばこのジャケットの生地のテクスチャー。今から100年も前の紡績や製織などの生地作り、生育環境や餌が今と異なる羊毛自体の質の違い、そういった点は、今では望むべくもなく再現もできないものなのだろうと思います。

Take, for example, the texture of the fabric of this jacket. The spinning and weaving of the fabric 100 years ago, the difference in the quality of the wool itself, which differs from that of today due to the different growing environment and feed, and other factors, are things that we cannot hope to reproduce today.

この1着もこの頃のテーラージャケットのスタイルの、力強いショルダーラインを作り出すしっかりした肩パッド、かっちりよりはガッチリというのがふさわしい固い芯、ボタンで閉じられた開き見せの袖、ベンツの無いスクウェアなヘムという、いま着る服としてはどうしても少し野暮ったい物でした。

This one also has the same style of tailor’s jackets of the time, with firm shoulder pads that create a strong shoulder line, a solid core that is more appropriate for being firm than tight, open sleeves with button closures, and a square hem with no vents. It was a bit dowdy for clothes worn nowadays.

パッドを取り除き、肩幅を調整し、ヘムをラウンドさせて裾周りを軽くして、袖幅と着丈を調整して変形のサイドベンツと本切羽を作り、袖と襟に新たにボタンホールを作り、他のも一緒に手でかがり、ライニングと内ポケットを作り直し、ポケットの袋布を作り替え、・・・etc.

We removed the padding, adjusted the shoulder width, rounded the hems, lightened the hems, adjusted the sleeve width and length, made deformed side vents and main cutouts, made new buttonholes on the sleeves and collar, hand-bagged the others together, rebuilt the lining and inside pockets, reworked the pocket bag cloth, …etc…

袖が太くて肩にはバツンとパッドがあって、着丈がだらりと長すぎて、なぜか重くくすんだ雰囲気で、裏地がシミだらけでポケットにはいつのものかわからない埃が詰まってて、ちょっと不潔で古臭くてサイズが合わなくてもそれがヴィンテージなんだしそれで良い（それが良い）と思われる人には全く余計な仕事の数々。

The sleeves are too thick, the shoulders are sloppily padded, the length is too long, the atmosphere is too heavy and dull for some reason, the lining is stained and the pockets are filled with dust from who knows when, it’s a little filthy and old-fashioned and doesn’t fit, but that’s vintage, and that’s fine (and that’s what it’s supposed to be). It’s a lot of extra work for people who think it’s vintage and that’s all right (and that’s good).

20世紀初頭にフランス、ブルゴーニュ地方のPleudihenという小さな街ののMarcel Pelleというテーラーで仕立てられた1着です。丁寧な手縫を多用した職人仕事のジャケット。

This jacket was tailored in the early 20th century by Marcel Pelle, a tailor in the small town of Pleudihen in Burgundy, France. This jacket is the work of a craftsman who used a lot of careful hand-stitching.

裏が起毛された厚みのあるドスキンの生地は100年以上経っても色褪せない高級さを醸す黒。

The thick duskin fabric with a raised backside exudes a luxurious black color that will not fade over 100 years.

ボリューム感と伸縮性を兼ね備えた生地は、100年の年月の痕跡を感じさせつつも皺にならない柔軟さと繻子織の上品な光沢が贅沢です。

The fabric, which has both volume and elasticity, is luxurious with its flexibility that does not wrinkle while showing traces of 100 years of age and the elegant luster of the satin weave.

フランスのvintageやantiqueから採った、サテン、サージ、モスリン、フランス綾などなど、さまざまな黒色の生地たち。

Various black fabrics such as satin, serge, muslin, French twill, etc. from French vintage and antique sources.

素材の違い、織の違い、染めの違い、経年の違いで現れるさまざまな黒。重層的なパッチの魅せる補修。

Various blacks that appear in different materials, different weaves, different dyeing, and different ages. Fascinating repair of multilayered patches.

ステッチをあまり表に出さないように、針で布端をすくいながら丹念に手で縫いつけたpatch。

The patch is painstakingly sewn by hand, scooping the fabric edge with a needle so that the stitches do not show too much.

コントラストをつけた色の太い糸で刺子風に縫うpatchとは、全く別世界の1.5～2mmぐらいの細やかなステッチ。

The stitching is fine, about 1.5mm, which is a completely different world from PATCH, which is stitched in the stitching style with thick threads of contrasting colors.

偶然と時間が作ったダメージと、偶然と時間が変化させた黒、考える縫い子の手仕事の作り出したもの。

Damage created by chance and time, and black altered by chance and time, the product of the handiwork of a thinking seamstress.

前身頃のヘムに丸みを加え、肩のフォルムを調整し、コバのステッチを全て解いて、ヘムにふくよかな柔らかさを持たせています。

Rounding is added to the front hems, the shoulder form is adjusted, and all the edge stitching is undone to give the hems a fuller, softer appearance.

閉じられていた袖口は、生地を接いで変形の本切羽に作り変え。開けて折り返しても、現代的なニュアンスを醸し、着こなす楽しみを広げるポイントになりました。

The closed cuffs have been reworked into shaped surgeon’s cuffs by joining the fabric. Even when opened and folded back, they give a modern nuance and expand the enjoyment of wearing them.

ベントの無かった裾にもサイドベントを新たに。手仕事だからこその手縫い皺も美しい柔らかな仕様です。

New side vents have been added to the hems where there were no vents before. The hand-stitched wrinkles are beautiful and soft because of the handwork.

元からあったボタンホールも糸を解き、全てかがり直したハンドホールです。

The original buttonholes are also hand-holed, with the threads unraveled and all re-covered.

ボタンはバッファローホーンボタン。

The buttons are selected buffalo horn buttons.

襟が立てられるようにボタンホールとボタンを追加。

Add buttonholes and buttons so that the collar can stand up.

キュプラのライニングと取り替えた、ラスティックなコットンブロードは、適度な張りとシワ感が有り、インドで織られた素朴な糸の表情が魅力です。手でまつりつけたライナーの生地感と色のコントラストと清潔感。柔らかな縫い皺は、手仕事ゆえのふくよかさ。

The rustic cotton broadcloth, which has been replaced with cupro lining, has moderate tension and wrinkles, and the rustic look of the yarn woven in India is attractive. The hand-patted liner gives the fabric texture, color contrast, and clean feeling. The soft stitching and wrinkles are the result of handwork.

フラップ裏やポケット袋布もラスティックコットンにとりかえて、コントラストと動きと清潔感のある豊かな表情。

作り替えたポケットの袋布は、長年溜まってこびり付いていたた正体不明の埃を除き、アクセントを与えます。

Vintageにありがちなポケットの隅にこびりついた得体の知れない残り物・・裏地の脇やネック辺りの変色、流れた時間の贈り物とは呼べない物は、取り除くのが基本です。

The flap lining and pocket pouch fabric have also been replaced with rustic cotton for a rich look of contrast, movement, and cleanliness. The new pocket pouch fabric removes the unidentified dust that has accumulated over the years and gives an accent to the pockets. The basic idea is to remove the unidentifiable remnants stuck in the corners of the pockets that are common in Vintage, the discoloration on the sides of the lining and around the neck, and anything else that cannot be called a gift of time.

手仕事だからこその、手縫い皺も美しい柔らかな仕様です。

Because it is hand-made, it has beautiful hand-stitched wrinkles and soft specifications.

紙の上やデジタル画面の中からは、決して生み出されることのない、流行やブランドや値段の多寡に惑わされない価値観を持った方々の、その人自身を魅せる衣です。

It is a garment that fascinates people who have values that are never created on paper or digital screens, and who are not confused by trends, brands, or prices.