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1950-1960 Vintage French Indigo Dyed Linen/Cotton Twill Fabric Made Maquignon Chore Work Worker Duster Coat
長い時間と日差しを蓄えこんだワークコート。
A work coat that has withstood the elements over time and sunlight.
生地はインディゴ染料染めのコットンとリネンの混紡糸のツイル。
随所に残る着込まれた擦り切れやダメージが、この服の辿ってきた時間を色濃く映し出しています。
The fabric is an indigo-dyed twill made from a blend of cotton and linen.
The wear and tear and damage that remain in places strongly reflect the time that this garment has traveled.
グレーのメランジ糸で織られた所謂salt&pepperの“GRIS de Travail” (グレーの仕事着)と並んで、フランスの働く人々の仕事着を代表する“blue de travail”(青い仕事着)。インディゴとカラー表記されていても普通染料で染めれた物が大半の中で、インディゴ染色のこの1着は貴重な存在です。
Along with the so-called salt & pepper “GRIS de Travail” (gray workwear) woven with gray melange yarn, “blue de travail” (blue workwear) is a representative workwear for working people in France. Even though it is labeled as indigo, most of it is dyed with regular dyes, so this indigo-dyed piece is a rare find.
このコートも解体する時に獣毛のようなもの穀物の籾殻がポケットの底や見返しの隅に付いていた事から、都市部の労働者の物というよりは、周辺部(=田舎)の農夫や下働きに就いていた人達が着ていた物なのだろう考えられます。
When this coat was dismantled, animal hair or grain husks were found at the bottom of the pocket and in the corners of the inside flap, which suggests that it was probably worn by a farmer or domestic worker in the outskirts (the countryside) rather than a worker in the city.
シャツと同じ袖付の1枚袖、背中心の接ぎ合わせやベントの無い1枚で作られた背身頃、直線的で簡素な縫製の作りなど、農村部の仕立て屋が作ったかのような素朴なフォルムのワークコートです。
This work coat has a simple form, as if it was made by a tailor in a rural area, with single-piece sleeves like those of a shirt, a back made from a single piece with no seam or vents at the center back, and straight, simple stitching.
外れて無くなってしまっていたウエストのポケットは、古いワークジャケットから取り外したものを転用。
The missing waist pocket was repurposed from an old work jacket.
転用したポケットは裏地をつけて2重構造にして立体感を持たせるとともに、ポケット口の見返しをantiqueのインディゴリネンに変更。
The repurposed pocket has been lined and given a double layer to give it a three-dimensional look, and the pocket opening has been changed to antique indigo linen.
Maquignonの仕事着特有の胸ポケットも裏地を加えて立体感を。
The chest pocket, a feature unique to Maquignon workwear, has been lined to give it a three-dimensional look.
このころのフランスの仕事着によく見られる、衿を1枚で作らずに強くカーブした2枚のパーツを継いだ、身頃に沿う形のフラットながらもボリュームのある衿。この衿も立体的なパターン発想が作り出したフランスならではのもの。
The collar, often seen in French workwear of this period, is not made of a single piece but is made of two strongly curved parts that are joined together to form a flat but voluminous collar that follows the body. This collar is also a uniquely French creation of a three-dimensional pattern conception.
インディアインク染のリネンで作り変えた裏襟。細かなステッチと身頃へ止め付けるハンドステッチのグレー。
The back collar has been remade from India ink dyed linen. It is gray with fine stitching and hand stitching to attach it to the body.
ボタンはさまざま色と形のの2種類のサイズをランダムにチョイスした、vintageのcorozo(主にエクアドルのタグワ椰子)。その実の種子の中の胚乳部分を加工して作られた趣のあるボタン。
19世紀から1950年代のプラスティック開発以前に、滑らかな手触りと硬さ丈夫さ染色性の良さを利用して、盛んに作られていたボタン。
The buttons are vintage corozo (mainly from the tagua palm of Ecuador) randomly selected in two sizes and in a variety of colors and shapes. These tasteful buttons are made from the endosperm inside the seed of the palm.
Before the development of plastic in the 19th century to the 1950s, buttons were actively produced, taking advantage of their smooth texture, hardness, durability, and good dyeability.
vegetable ivoryの呼び名通りの乳白色の実を削って加工される何とも言えない丸みと、乳白色のベースを染める事で生まれる優しい色合いの魅力。見た目に反してしっかりした質感と重みを兼ね備えた、味わい深さを持ったボタンです。
As the name “vegetable ivory” implies, this button has an indescribable roundness created by shaving milky white berries, and the charm of the gentle coloring produced by dyeing the milky white base. Contrary to its appearance, this button has a solid texture and weight, and has a deep sense of taste.
元からあったボタンホールも糸を解き、全て手縫でステッチし直したハンドホールです。数を3倍に増やしたボタンが作り出す普通のようで普通ではない表情。
The original buttonholes are also hand-holed, with all the threads untied and re-stitched by hand.
The buttons, whose number has been tripled, create an ordinary but unusual look.
数を3倍に増やしてずらりと並ぶボタンが、クラシックでありながらモダンな表情です。手仕事の温っぽさを打ち消した顔立ちが古いけれども新しい。
The buttons, triple the number and lined up in a row, give the garment a classic yet modern look. The minimalist look, which eliminates the warmth of handcrafted work, is old yet new.
ダメージの激しかった袖先を除去して、ANTIQUEのインディゴリネン作ったパーツを接いだ袖。
The ends of the sleeves, which were severely damaged, were removed and replaced with parts made from ANTIQUE indigo linen.
ライニングしたラスティックなコットンブロードは、適度な張りとシワ感が有り、素朴な糸の表情が魅力です。
The rustic cotton broadcloth lining has just the right amount of tension and wrinkle, and the rustic look of the yarn is appealing.
ハンドのブラインドステッチでのライニング。手の温もりではなくストイックさを伝える不揃いなステッチ、縫い皺の表情や生地のコントラストが乾いた奥行きを作り出します。
The lining is hand-blind stitched. The uneven stitching conveys a sense of stoicism rather than the warmth of the hand, and the texture of the creases and fabric create a dry depth.
ミシンで縫えば数分の仕事に、その十数倍の時間をかけたことの意味は、きっとあるはず。
Blind stitching by hand to sew the linings together. It must be meaningful that we spent more than ten times as much time on a job that would take only a few minutes if sewn with a sewing machine.
ヘムを軽くするために、止めつけずに浮かせてつけたライニングの裾。適度なボリュームを持たせるために深い見返しをつけ、ハンドステッチでアクセントを添えています。
To lighten the hem, the lining hem is floated instead of sewn. A deep turnover is added to give the right amount of volume, and hand-stitched accents are added.
防水、高発汗、強靭、難燃。素材はどんどん高機能になり、形も運動性や作業効率を追求したものへと進化を続けてきたけれど、ファッション的には退化しているに違いないワークウェアの世界。
Waterproof, sweat-wicking, tough, flame-retardant. Materials have become increasingly sophisticated, and designs have evolved to accommodate greater mobility and work efficiency, but the world of workwear is surely regressing in terms of fashion.
ファッションとは無縁のはずの世界である仕事着に込められた、フランスのセンスが、多くの愛好家を生み、惹きつけ続け、お手本となり続ける、フランスというモード発祥の地が培った“ ファッションの原点 ” が生み出したワークウェアの到達点の一つです。
The French esprit and sense put into workwear, which is a world that should have nothing to do with fashion, has given birth to many lovers and continues to attract them, and continues to be a role model. It is one of the achievements of workwear.
この服が働く人達のものであった事と、長い時間と愛着、愛用を示す全体各所の擦り切れ、破れ、穴あきを、ダーニング、パッチなど様々な方法で飾った、古くて新しい1着です。
This coat’s history is proof that it once belonged to working people, and that it has been decorated in various ways, such as with darning and patches, to remove the wear, tears and holes that indicate the love and affection that has been placed over a long period of time.
SIZE Free(S~L)
Shoulder Width =53cm (22in)
Bust Width=59cm(脇下) (24in)
Sleeve length =56 cm (23in)
Length =92cm (37in)
France/Japan
Front Fabric = Indigo Dyed Linen/Cotton Twill / Linen&Cotton
Back Fabric = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth / Cotton 100%
Buttons = 1950-1960 Vintage French Corozo Button
& Antique Fabric Covered Buttons
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[ALTERATION By Manure Of Drawers] ON SALE