Vintage French Moleskin Fabric Work Jacket with Lot of Darning & Patches

ON SALE

If you live outside of Japan and have a [PayPal] account, you can buy directly from the [Buy Now] link below. If you do not have a [PayPal] account, you will need to get one. Shipping costs are based on standard EMS rates to North America. Any difference that may occur depending on your location will be returned or billed additionally. Please be especially aware of countries where EMS to/from Japan has been suspended or other circumstances.

1950’s Vintage French Long Establised Factory “RAYFER”s Rare Design Moleskin Fabric Work Jacket with Lot of Darning & Patches

フランスのワークウェアは、テーラーワークを基本としたパターンメイクと縫製を基本とし、「ファッション」と対極の位置にあるはずの「労働着」を超えた存在です。

French workwear is based on pattern making and sewing that are fundamental to tailoring, and goes beyond “work clothes,” which are supposed to be the polar opposite of “fashion.”

1950年代にフランスで作られた“RAYFER”社製のワークジャケットとしては珍しい比翼仕立ての1枚。

This work jacket, made in France in the 1950s by RAYFER, features a rare concealed placket.

小さな襟やコンパクトなフィット感で70年前の労働着と思えないフランスらしい粋なジャケット。

With its small collar and compact fit, this stylish jacket has a typical French feel and it’s hard to believe it was workwear from 70 years ago.

“bleu de travail”と呼ばれるフランスの労働着を象徴する青のモールスキン。

Blue moleskin, symbolizing French workwear known as “bleu de travail.”

生地はフランスの50年代ぐらいまでの仕事着によく用いられたMoleskin。サテンと同じ繻子織(朱子織)の織物で、サテンは経繻子、モールスキンは緯繻子の組織になっている織物です。緯繻子は緯糸が経糸4本(標準的な場合)の上を通って5本目で下に潜る織りを繰り返す織り方で、表面には緯糸だけが見える(サテンはこれの経糸版)状態になっています。

Moleskin was often used for work clothes in France until the 1950s.

Moleskin is a satin weave (vermilion satin weave) like satin, but satin is a warp satin weave and moleskin is a weft satin weave. In weft satin, the weft thread passes over four warp threads (in the standard case) and dips down at the fifth thread in a repeated weave, so that only the weft thread is visible on the surface (satin is a warp version of this).

繻子織は糸の交差している部分が目立たず、緯糸の見える面積が広く光沢のある生地を作ることができるため、シルクの織物によく用いられました。仕事着としてのMoleskinは、糸の交差部分が少ない事を利用して緯糸の打ち込み本数を増やして糸を重ね、生地に厚みと柔らかなボリュームのある生地を作り、さらに起毛をかける事で、糸が浮いて引っ掛かりやすい表面の緯糸をフェルト状に一体化させ、弱点を抑えた生地です。

Satin weave was often used for silk weaving because the intersections between the threads were not noticeable and the surface area of the threads was large enough to produce a shiny fabric. Moleskin for work wear is a fabric with thicker and softer volume by increasing the number of weft yarn stitches and layering the yarns to take advantage of the small number of yarn intersections, and by raising the yarns, the weft yarns on the surface, which are prone to floating and snagging, are felted together to reduce their weakness.

織り方自体が頑丈なキャンバスやサージと違って、Moleskinは糸の重なり量で厚みと耐久性を高める構造。織り組織自体は緩く、生地に厚みと張りがあっても、キャンバスのようにガチガチの感触では無く、弾力性と伸縮性を少し持つテクスチャーが特徴的です。

Unlike canvas and serge, where the weave itself is sturdy, Moleskin has a structure where the thickness and durability are enhanced by the amount of yarn overlap. The weave itself is loose, and even though the fabric is thick and taut, it does not feel stiff like canvas, but has a texture with a bit of elasticity and stretch.

炭坑労働者の需要が高かった頑丈さと着心地の良さを兼ね備えたMoleskin生地でしたが、炭坑の衰退、織り上げるのに時間がかかる緯繻子の非効率さ、WW2による織り機の損壊などによって、60年代以降には姿を消していきました。

Moleskin fabric, which combined durability and comfort, was in high demand among coal miners, but it disappeared from use after the 1960s due to the decline of coal mining, the inefficiency of weaving satin, which takes a long time to weave, and damage to looms during World War II.

愛用され着込まれた事が作り出した全体に残る着込まれたダメージを彩った魅せる補修。

A striking repair that adds colour to the overall wear and tear that has been created through loving and wearing the garment.

カフスやヘム、様々なダメージへのpatchとdarning.

Patches and darning on cuffs and hems, and various other damage.

リネンコードで留め付けた生成りのライニング。味わいと清潔感を与える、色あせた表地とのコントラスト。

The off-white lining is fastened with a linen cord, contrasting with the faded outer fabric for a tasteful and clean look.

裏をつけて2重にしたうえで、内側を手で掬い縫いして身頃に縫い付ける事で、ふくよかな質感のあるフォルムにしたポケット。

The pocket is lined and double-layered, then the inside is hand-scooped and sewn to the body, giving it a plump, textured shape.

小ぶりな襟は、立てて着てもサマになるショートポイント。

The small collar has a short design that looks good even when worn up.

背中にアクセントとして入れたステッチワーク。vintageのリネンコードを一針一針丹念に刺して十字のモチーフを描きました。手でモチーフを描いても、手の温かさを主張するのではなく、静かに主張する背中。

The stitching on the back is an accent. A cross motif is created by carefully stitching vintage linen cord one by one. The motif is created by hand, but the back quietly asserts the warmth of the hand rather than asserting it.

ボタンはさまざま色と形をランダムにチョイスした、vintageのcorozo(主にエクアドルのタグワ椰子)。その実の種子の中の胚乳部分を加工して作られた趣のあるボタン。

The buttons are vintage corozo (mainly from the tagua palm of Ecuador) randomly selected in various colors and shapes. These tasteful buttons are made from the endosperm of the seeds of the corozo.

19世紀から1950年代のプラスティック開発以前に、滑らかな手触りと硬さ丈夫さ染色性の良さを利用して、盛んに作られていたボタン。

From the 19th century until the 1950s, before the development of plastic, buttons were widely produced, taking advantage of their smooth feel, hardness, durability, and good dyeability.

vegetable ivoryの呼び名通りの乳白色の実を削って加工される何とも言えない丸みと、乳白色のベースを染める事で生まれる優しい色合いの魅力。見た目に反してしっかりした質感と重みを兼ね備えた、味わい深さを持ったボタンです。

As the name “vegetable ivory” implies, this button has an indescribable roundness created by shaving milky white berries, and the charm of the gentle coloring produced by dyeing the milky white base. Contrary to its appearance, this button has a solid texture and weight, and has a deep sense of taste.

ワークジャケットには珍しい比翼仕立ての前立て仕様。

It has a concealed placket, which is rare for a work jacket.

元からあったボタンホールも糸を解いて、数を倍に増やして手で縫い直したボタンホール。ズラリと並ぶボタンが独特の表情を作り出します。

The original buttonholes were also unthreaded, and twice as many were resewn by hand. The rows of buttons create a unique look.

手仕事の温っぽさを打ち消したミニマルな顔立ちが古いけれども新しい。

The minimalist look, which eliminates the warmth of handmade items, is old yet new.

「ファッション」と対極の位置にあるはずの「労働着」を超えた昔のフランスのワークウェアだからこそ作り出せた、古いだけ、新しいだけでは、出来ないことができる服

These clothes are made possible only because of old French workwear, which goes beyond the “work clothes” that should be the polar opposite of “fashion.” They are clothes that can do things that simply being old or new cannot.