Indigo Dyed Linen “Villette” Fabric Lots of Hand Sewn Patches Gilet

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Vintage French Indigo Dyed Linen “Villette” Fabric Made Intricately Inlaid Lots of Hand Sewn Patches Gilet

シャツとパンツのプレーンなスタイルにニュアンスを加えたり、ジャケットの着こなしをランクアップさせたりと、１枚加えれば便利なジレ。

A gilet can add nuance to a plain shirt and trousers style, or it can elevate the look of a jacket.

20世紀初頭～中期の、数種類のフランスのインディゴ染めのvilletteを、組み合わせ手縫いでpatchしたGilet。

Early to mid-20th century Gilet made of several types of French indigo-dyed villette, hand-stitched together.

昔の生地特有の素朴な趣きを残す風合い。インディゴが少し陽に灼け、褪せた色の濃淡のグラデーションの入り混じった深い色合い。着込んで行くにつれ、さらにブルーへと変化していく楽しさ。これからの変化が、着る人の愛着の証です。

The texture retains the rustic feel characteristic of old fabrics. The indigo has been slightly scorched by the sun, and the deep hue is mixed with a gradation of faded shades of color. As the wearer wears it more and more, the more blue it becomes, the more enjoyable it becomes. The change from now on is a proof of the wearer’s attachment.

生地を上に被せてpatchするのでは無く、象嵌細工のように生地をくり抜きながらモザイク状に生地をpatchしていくフランス独特のpatch work=travail de patchだけが描き出せる不思議な魅力。

The patch work is not done by covering the fabric on top of the patch, but by hollowing out the fabric like an inlay work, and then patch the fabric in the form of a mosaic.

時間による風化、汚れによる滲染、陽灼けによる退色、様々な要素が積み重なった言葉のいらない存在感。

Weathering by time, blotting by dirt, fading by the sun, and various other factors add up to a presence that requires no words.

単純な形の反復ではなく、複雑に組み合わさった象嵌模様。

The inlaid pattern is not a repetition of simple shapes, but an intricate combination of shapes.

複雑に布の重なりの組み合わさったpatchは、ミシンでは無く、手で縫うからこその表情。

The intricately layered fabric patches have a look that can only be achieved by sewing by hand, not with a sewing machine.

5mm以上ものピッチで太い糸を刺す刺し子や、ミシンで生地を叩きつけるパッチワークとは全く違う、静かな大人のpatch work。

Quiet adult PATCH WORK is completely different from stitching with thick threads at a pitch of 5mm or more SASHIKO, or from patchwork where the fabric is beaten with a sewing machine.

patchされた生地の色の控えめなコントラストとちゃんと縫われた端々は、切りっぱなしの生地を貼り付けたpatchや、派手な色や柄の即興的なpatchとは、全く別の世界観です。

The subdued contrast of the colors of the patched fabrics and the properly stitched edges are a completely different worldview from patches that are just cut and pasted fabrics, or improvised patches with flashy colors and patterns.

機械技術がまだまだ発達しきっていない時代の、手仕事で麻を処理し、糸を紡ぎ、織り上げた味のあるリネン。

In the days when machine technology was not yet fully developed, linen was processed, spun, and woven by hand.

細番手のリネン糸で、高密度に織り上げた目の詰まった生地はまだ多くを職人の手仕事で麻を処理し、糸を紡ぎ、織り上げた時代のものとは思えないほど細くしなやかな糸で稠密に織り上げられていて動物の毛がつきにくく払いやすいように考え出されたものだということです。

The fabric is made of fine linen yarns, densely woven and tightly woven with yarns so fine and supple that it is hard to believe that this fabric was made in an era when hemp was still processed, spun, and woven mostly by hand by craftsmen.

リネンという名前の持つ上質や高級なイメージといった一面とは対極にある実用着としてのフランスの農村部で一番身近な素材としての野性味のあるはだかのリネン。

The wild and bare linen as the most familiar material in rural France as practical wear that is the opposite of the image of quality and luxury that the name “linen” has.

ラスティックなコットンブロードは、適度な張りとシワ感が有り、インドで織られた素朴な糸の表情が魅力です。

Rustic cotton broadcloth has moderate tension and wrinkles, and the rustic look of the yarn woven in India is appealing.

ボタンは、水牛の角のボタン。手縫いのボタンホールに、通常giletに使うものより少し大振りな直径のボタンを、ずらりと縫い付けています。内側にも、フランスの農家の納屋で見つかった古布で包んだボタンがずらり。

The buttons are buffalo horn buttons. Buttons slightly larger in diameter than those normally used for gilets are sewn in rows on hand-sewn buttonholes. The inside is also lined with buttons wrapped in old cloth found in a French farmer’s barn.