French Rustic Linen Fabric Made Intricately Inlaid Patches Gilet

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Vintage French　Rustic Linen Fabric Made Hand sewn Intricately Inlaid Patches Gilet

シャツとパンツのプレーンなスタイルにニュアンスを加えたり、ジャケットの着こなしをランクアップさせたりと、１枚加えれば便利なジレ。

A gilet can add nuance to a plain shirt and trousers style, or it can elevate the look of a jacket.

身頃のリネン生地はフランスのvintage。

The bodice is made of vintage French linen fabric.

衣料用のリネンとしてはかなり異例の太番手の糸で織られた素朴な風合いの生地をベースに、3種類の生地をpatchした身頃。

This fabric has a rustic feel and is woven with thick yarn, which is quite unusual for linen used for clothing.

芯のある手触りが着込まれるに従って、柔らかさとしなやかさと張りのあるリネンのトロみを持つ生地に変化して行く楽しみ。

The firm texture of the fabric transforms with wear, becoming softer, more supple, and retaining the smooth drape of linen―a truly delightful experience.

織り方、糸の太さ、染め方、経過した時間の違いが生み出す黒のモザイク。

The mosaic of black created by differences in weaving technique, thread thickness, dyeing method, and the passage of time.

今なお世界のリネン原料のフラックス（亜麻）生産の70％を生み出し続けるフランスは、文字通りのリネン大国です。栽培には温帯から熱帯の気候を必要とするため、綿の栽培が難しいフランスの気候に適した亜麻は、衣類のみならずシーツなどの寝具や寝間着などのホームリネンから、テーブルクロスやナプキンなどのテーブルリネンにも使われフランス人にとっては綿以上に生活に密着した最も身近な繊維です。

France, which still produces 70% of the world’s flax, is literally a linen powerhouse. Flax is used not only for clothing, but also for home linens such as sheets and bedding, table linens such as tablecloths and napkins, and is the most familiar fiber to French people, more closely related to their daily lives than cotton. It is the most familiar fiber to French people, more closely connected to their lives than cotton.

その生地をフランスならではの生地を上から被せて縫い付けるのではなく、くり抜いた部分に接ぎ合わせるように縫い付けモザイク状にpatchしていく“Travile de Patch”で作り出した身頃。

The body is made by “Travile de Patch”, a technique unique to France in which the fabric is not sewn over the top, but is patched in a mosaic-like pattern by sewing it on to the hollowed-out areas.

単純な形の反復ではなく、複雑に組み合わさった象嵌模様。

The inlaid pattern is not a repetition of simple shapes, but an intricate combination of shapes.

色のコントラストをつけた綿糸で、1～1.5mm前後の手縫の細かなまつり縫いで繋いだpatch。

PATCH is made of cotton threads with discreet color contrasts, joined with fine hand-stitched blind stitches of around1～ 1.5 mm.

このpatchも、ミシンで縫えば縫い目も綺麗で、必要な時間は10分の1。しかし、それを手で縫うことの意味は、きっとある。

This PATCH could be sewn with a sewing machine and the seams would be beautiful, requiring only one-tenth of the time, but there must be a point to sewing it by hand.

ラスティックなコットンブロードは、適度な張りとシワ感が有り、インドで織られた素朴な糸の表情が魅力です。

Rustic cotton broadcloth has moderate tension and wrinkles, and the rustic look of the yarn woven in India is appealing.

ボタンは、水牛の角のボタン。手縫いのボタンホールに、通常giletに使うものより少し大振りな直径のボタンを、ずらりと縫い付けています。内側にも、フランスの農家の納屋で見つかった古布で包んだボタンがずらり。

The buttons are buffalo horn buttons. Buttons slightly larger in diameter than those normally used for gilets are sewn in rows on hand-sewn buttonholes. The inside is also lined with buttons wrapped in old cloth found in a French farmer’s barn.

ボタンホールも全てリネンコードを使った手縫です。ミシンでは作り出せない味わいを持ったもの。

All buttonholes are also hand-stitched using linen cord. They have a taste that cannot be created with a sewing machine.

ポケットは1つ。手縫いで付けられたシンプルでuselessなもの。

One pocket. Simple and useless, hand-sewn.

前身頃と背身頃をつなぐ脇も肩もすべて手縫いです。だからこそ生まれるふくよかな皺、手じゃなければ出来ない事、手だからこそ出来るもののかたちです。

The sides and shoulders connecting the front and back are all sewn by hand. This is why the wrinkles are so plump, something that can only be done by hand, and a form of something that can only be done by hand.