Hand-sewn Spiral Sstitch and Velvet Ribbon Trimmed Shirt

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REDA Wool Tropical Fabric Made Hand-sewn Spiral Sstitch and Velvet Ribbon Trimmed Shirt

細やかなミシンステッチと美しくかっちりした仕上げを競うシャツの世界の端っこの、少しルーズなシャツ。

This slightly loose shirt is on the fringes of a world of shirts that compete for delicate machine stitching and beautiful, crisp finishes.

普通であれば、美しい縫製とかっちりした仕立てで、生地の上質さを愛でるシャツにするところを、リネンコードを裾やプラケットにトリミングして、目一杯のパッカリングも縫い皺もおかまいなしに締め上げた私達のSTANDARD。

Normally, we would have made this shirt with beautiful sewing and tight tailoring, and loved the quality of the fabric, but we trimmed the hems and plackets with linen cords, and tightened our STANDARD without regard to excessive puckering or wrinkling.

生地はイタリアのBiellaで創業され150年以上の歴史を持つREDA社の技術の一端が見える、超極細に紡がれた糸で織られたウールトロピカル。

The fabric is a wool tropical woven from ultra-fine yarn, showcasing some of the technology of REDA, a company founded in Biella, Italy, with a history of over 150 years.

全ての染色を、羊毛を糸に紡績する前の“羊毛わた” の状態で染めるREDA独自の「トップ染め」で染められた重層的なグレー。

All dyeing is done using REDA’s unique “top dyeing” method, which dyes the wool while it is still in its “wool fluff” state before it is spun into yarn, resulting in a layered gray.

ニュージーランドに自社の牧場を持ち、羊毛から紡績、染色、交織、仕上げまでの全工程を自社で行う“一貫紡”ならではの高品質なメリノウールだけが成せる生地。

We have our own ranch in New Zealand, where we handle all processes in-house, from wool to spinning, dyeing, interweaving, and finishing, making this fabric only possible with high-quality merino wool, a method that is unique to our “integrated spinning” method.

しなやかさ、柔らかさそして上品な光沢と、さらりとした肌触りと適度なハリの心地よさ。

Supple, soft and with an elegant luster, it has a smooth texture and a comfortable, moderate firmness.

ステッチの無いリラックスした柔らかな印象のラウンドカラー。

A round collar with no stitching for a relaxed and soft impression.

カフスや襟の端をミシンステッチで縫い固めず、膨らみと柔らかさを残すために、あえて時間をかけて手縫いで縫い付けたベルベットリボン。

The velvet ribbons on the cuffs and collar edges are not machine stitched, but are instead sewn by hand, taking the time to preserve their volume and softness.

細かく手ですくいながら縫い付けたリボン。ミシンでは生地が何枚も重なる箇所を貫通させて縫い止めることになりますが、手で縫うことで柔らかな風合いをそのままに。

The ribbon is carefully sewn on by hand. With a sewing machine, the must penetrate the overlapping areas of the fabric, but by sewing by hand, the soft texture is preserved.

シャツにはあまり使わない箱ポケットを胸に。小ぶりでuselessな設定のポケットです。タバコも入らない役立たずなポケットなので、布の切れっ端でも飾っておいてください。

A welt pocket on the chest, which is not often used on shirts. It is a small, USELESS setting pocket. It is a useless pocket that won’t even hold a cigarette, so please display it with a piece of cloth.

胸ポケットに添えたリボンも手縫いならではの柔らかな顔つき。

The ribbon attached to the chest pocket also has a soft look that can only be achieved by hand sewing.

ヘムのサイドラインの曲線を巻き込んだスパイラルステッチの、うねりはと表情豊かに風にたなびく裾まわりを作り出す。

The spiral stitching wraps around the curve of the hem’s side line, creating an expressive undulating hem that flutters in the wind.

ガゼットも手縫いで。

The gusset is also hand sewn.

私たちのStandardはいつも、ひねりとへそ曲がりの入ったベーシックがテーマです。このシャツのベースは、襟、ヨーク、肩など全てミシンのステッチを極力表に出さないシンプルなシャツ。

Our Standard is always about basics with a twist and the sprit of perversity.The base of this shirt is a simple shirt with as little sewing machine stitching as possible showing on the collar, yoke, shoulders, etc.

ミシンステッチが出ているのは右身頃の前立てとcuffs placketのみで、台襟の付け根も押さえのステッチは行わずに手でまつっています。

台襟、上前立、カフスの裏はリネンコードのハンドステッチ。表にポツポツと頭だけをのぞかせる、表情豊かな小さなステッチ。

The only machine stitches visible are on the placket and cuffs placket of the right side of the body, and the base of the collar is sewn by hand without any presser stitches.

The collar, upper placket and the inside of the cuffs are hand-stitched with linen cord. Small, expressive stitches peek out here and there on the outside.

脇は袋縫いをした後にSpiral Stitchを行っています。ミシンステッチを表に出さない為の少し面倒な工夫です。

The sides are sewn with a bag stitch and then spiral stitched. This is a slightly tedious technique to prevent the machine stitching from showing on the outside.

ボタンはランダムにチョイスしたフレンチヴィンテージのガラスボタンです。有名なチェコやベネツィアの物のように凝ったデザインや、カラフルな色使いの装飾的で高価な物ではなく、庶民や労働者にむけた実質的なシンプルな形がたくさん作られて浸透していたフランス特有のもの。

The buttons are randomly selected French vintage glass buttons. They are not elaborately designed, colorful, decorative and expensive ones like the famous Czech or Venetian ones, but rather the ones peculiar to France, where many substantial and simple shapes were made for the common people and workers, and penetrated the market.