Vintage Viyella Herringbone Over Shirt with Hand Trimmed Velvet Ribbon

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1970’s French Vintage Viyella Herringbone Over Shirt ALTERATION with Hand Trimmed Velvet Ribbon

細やかなミシンステッチと美しくかっちりした仕上げを競うシャツの世界の端っこの、少しルーズなシャツ。

This slightly loose shirt is on the fringes of a world of shirts that compete for delicate machine stitching and beautiful, crisp finishes.

70年代に作られたvintageのシャツをALTERATIONした1枚です。

This is an altered version of a vintage shirt made in the 70s.

生地はイタリアのBIELLA地方で作られたCotton ViyellaのHerringbone。

The fabric is Cotton Viyella Herringbone, made in the Biella region of Italy.

本来ウールとコットンの混紡糸の薄手の綾織を軽く起毛させた生地の名称だったViyellaが、どんどんシャツ地に使われる柔らかな起毛生地全般の総称として意味合いが広がったViyellaの名称。

Viyella was originally the name of a lightly brushed thin twill fabric made from a wool and cotton blend, but the name has gradually expanded to refer to all soft brushed fabrics used for shirting.

ネルとの違いはネルが農民、屈強な男性などブルーカラーのイメージに対し、Viyellaは上流の上品なイメージというイメージのみの違いとなっているのは面白いところです。

It’s interesting to note that the only difference between Nel and Viyella is that Nel has a blue-collar image, such as farmers and strong men, while Viyella has an upper-class, elegant image.

上質な糸を使うからこそ作り出せる柔らかくとろみのある生地の風合いと、チャコールとミディアムグレーの落ち着いた色合いのHerringbone。

Herringbone has a soft, flowing texture that can only be achieved by using high-quality yarn, and comes in calming charcoal and medium gray colors.

襟はプラケットの見返しが1枚でそのまま襟に繋がるイタリアンカラー仕様の襟。

The collar is an Italian collar, with the placket facing being a single piece that connects directly to the collar.

襟もカフスもコバステッチを全て解いて端部の硬さを取り除き、その風合いを減じないためにあえて時間をかけて手縫いで縫い付けたベルベットリボン。

The velvet ribbon on the collar and cuffs has been sewn by hand, with all edge stitching removed to remove stiffness from the edges, and it has been sewn on over time to preserve the texture.

鋭角な襟先を丸く切りとり、リラックスした柔らかな印象に変更したラウンドカラー。

The round collar has been rounded off to change the sharp edge of the collar to give a relaxed and soft impression.

細かく手ですくいながら縫い付けたリボン。ミシンでは生地が何枚も重なる箇所を貫通させて縫い止めることになりますが、手で縫うことで柔らかな風合いをそのままに。

The ribbon is carefully sewn on by hand. With a sewing machine, the must penetrate the overlapping areas of the fabric, but by sewing by hand, the soft texture is preserved.

胸ポケットに添えたリボンも手縫いならではの柔らかな顔つき。

The ribbon attached to the chest pocket also has a soft look that can only be achieved by hand sewing.

ポケットには手でステッチしたリネンコードのクロスモチーフ。

The pocket features a hand-stitched linen cord cross motif.

前身の裾にもベルベットのリボン。

There is also a velvet ribbon at the hem of the front.

ボタンはランダムにチョイスしたフレンチヴィンテージのガラスボタンです。有名なチェコやベネツィアの物のように凝ったデザインや、カラフルな色使いの装飾的で高価な物ではなく、庶民や労働者にむけた実質的なシンプルな形がたくさん作られて浸透していたフランス特有のもの。

The buttons are randomly selected French vintage glass buttons. They are not elaborately designed, colorful, decorative and expensive ones like the famous Czech or Venetian ones, but rather the ones peculiar to France, where many substantial and simple shapes were made for the common people and workers, and penetrated the market.