Vintage “Dunn&Co.” Chesterfield Coat Tailored “CROMBIE” Wool Herringbone Fabric

Vintage  “Dunn&Co.” Chesterfield Coat Tailored  “CROMBIE” Wool Herringbone Fabric




1950-1960 Vintage “Dunn&Co.” Chesterfield Coat Tailored in Specially Ordered “CROMBIE” Wool Herringbone Fabric





Three-quarter length,  notched lapel coat. Known as a chesterfield coat, it is a coat that fits perfectly with adult words such as luxury, quality, and formal, but because it has a complete style, it is a fun piece with a nostalgia that can be worn out.










19世紀の中頃にこのコートの名前の由来となったチェスターフィールド伯爵が仕立てた原型は、ノッチドラペルでセットインスリーブ、前たてはフライフロント、ウエストのフロントポケットはフラップ付で上襟にはベルベット( ! )が使われていて、さらにライニングは燃えるような赤( !!! )っていう、かなり洒落のめしたエレガントなスタイル。

The prototype, tailored in the mid-19th century by the Earl of Chesterfield, after whom the coat is named, has notched lapels, set-in sleeves, a fly-front front, front waist pockets with flaps, and a velvet upper collar (!!!)and the lining was a fiery red (!!!).A very fashionable and elegant style.











When the first coat was tailored, the fabric chosen was from “Crombie,” established in 1805, and everyone admired and imitated the style and fabric of the coat and the count, so the “chesterfield coat” was also called a “Crombie coat. In other words, it became so popular that the generic term for a three-quarter-length, notched lapel wool coat is called a “Crombie coat” in the same way that McIntosh is the generic term for a raincoat in the UK.










ラベルに書かれた[FOR Dunn&Co.]が示すように、生地はDunn&co.がCROMBIEに特別に作らせた、オリジナル。

As the label [FOR Dunn&Co.] indicates, the fabric is an original, specially made by CROMBIE for Dunn&co.








Dunn & co. was founded in Birmingham, England in 1877 as a hat retailer and later expanded into men’s clothing, growing to include 200 stores by the early 1900s. Although the company went out of business in the 1990s due to poor business performance, it had stores on the main streets of most major British cities as well as in urban areas such as London and Liverpool, and gained popularity for its off-duty sport-type blazers made of tweed and linen.











It is an authentic, classic, yet modern form that is the crystallization of an English gentleman’s dandyism, and is overflowing with charm.











High-quality wool yarns are densely woven into a fabric that is not very thick, yet has a firm, tight feel and a sense of weight. The herringbone fabric, woven with charcoal gray and black yarns and lightly brushed, is both windproof and cold-resistant, and will not fade even after many years of wear.











Stitching decorates the cuffs and hems to adorn, rather than hide, the evidence of years of use and attachment.











The gentle line from the natural waist shape to the hem is perfectly balanced without feeling the weight of the voluminous fabric.








The rustic cotton broadcloth, which has replaced an old cupro lining, has just the right amount of tension and wrinkle, and the rustic look of the yarn woven in India is appealing.











The contrasting colors of the hand-matted liner fabric and the plump wrinkles created by the hand-sewn stitching eliminate the clinginess that clings to old clothes, and furthermore, dispel the heavy impression attached to old clothes, giving them a modern look.











Blind stitching by hand to sew the lining together. It is a job that takes only a few minutes to sew on a sewing machine, but it must be worth spending more than a dozen times that amount of time.











The buttons are British 1950s-1960s Vintage deadstock. Most of the antler buttons normally found are made from buffalo horns, primarily Asian buffalo horns processed in Asia. These buttons were made in England from English bull (Hereford or Aberdeen Angus) horn, specially made to order for a famous English menswear brand.











The thickness of 4-6 mm, the leather finish on the reverse side, the natural mixture of brown, black, milky white, translucent beige, and muddy beige in the corners, the size of 27 mm, the four widely spaced large button holes that also give a modern impression, the rough shaving of the round cut-out shape, and the texture that makes the most of the bare look. The texture of the buttons is a gem from more than 60 years ago that has nothing but power and quality in every way.











The buttons are placed with narrower spacing and greater number than in the original state. This gives the coat a modern look without changing the form. The original buttonholes were also unraveled and hand-stitched using the same linen cord to match the newly created buttonholes.











The hem of the lining is floated away from the outer fabric to lighten the hem. A deep turnover is added for moderate volume, and hand-stitched accents are added.











The padded shoulders and thick interlining are typical of old tailoring. These have been adjusted to create a modern form that shows a classic yet unique look.











We removed all the pocket sackcloth that had been stuck to the pockets over the years, along with the dust behind the hems and seams that had surfaced when we dismantled the garment. The pocket sackcloth was reworked in rustic cotton.











A pocket that looks like a watch pocket but is actually a Useless pocket.








The contrasting lining and hand stitching make the hems, which tend to look heavy on firm fabrics, look lighter, and further color the deep slits that give a sense of movement.











It is a one-of-a-kind piece of clothing that allows the wearer to enjoy a one-of-a-kind existence, sublimating “old and new, new and old” by fusing the “latest” of the time with modern dress and sensibilities.







サイズ 1

肩幅 =41cm 


袖丈 =57 cm 

着丈 =88cm


Front Fabric =  “CROMBIE” Wool Herringbone / Wool 100%

Lining Fabric = Indian Rustic Cotton Cloth / Cotton 100%
Button = 1950-1960 Vintage British Cow  Horn Button (Dead stock&Random choice)

     & Antique Fabric Covered Button






1950-1960 Vintage “Dunn&Co.” Chesterfield Coat Tailored in Specially Ordered “CROMBIE” Wool Herringbone Fabric

[ALTERATION By Manure of Drawers]  SOLD