Vintage Stripe French Linen Fabric Made Maquignon Worker Coat

Vintage Stripe French Linen Fabric Made Maquignon Worker Coat




1960’s Vintage Stripe French Linen Fabric Made Maquignon Chore Worker Coat





The motif of the coat’s shape is based on a prototype from Maquignon’s coats of the early 1900s, utilizing the beautifully crafted sleeves that follow the lines of the body, sloping the shoulders and curving the arms to meet the need for movement.











Maquignon was originally derived from the Dutch word makelare (intermediary or negotiation), which initially referred to horse dealers, but eventually came to mean horse owners and breeders. Its prototype was the overcoat work clothes worn by Maquignon at work.











Besides the usual breast pocket, one of the features of Maquignon’s coats, there is a pocket for brushes and other work tools.














The beauty of French workwear lies in the three-dimensional, curvilinear designs created by patterns and sewing based on tailor-made work, and the expression of the fabrics that overflow with atmosphere. It is a completely different world from the tough and rugged workwear of the U.S. and U.K., where contrasting thick and sturdy stitches are double and triple stitched.











The French style, the cradle of fashion, was born for working people, and although it is supposed to be conceived in response to the demand for functionality, it does not forget “comfort” and “design sophistication”.











The fabric is a French dead stock vintage linen fabric.











Tastefully colored stripes woven with medium count mixed gray and off-white yarns that have a slightly loosely spun rustic feel.











France, which still produces more than 70% of the world’s flax, is literally a linen powerhouse. Flax is used not only for clothing, but also for home linens such as sheets and bedding, table linens such as tablecloths and napkins, and is the most familiar fiber to French people, more closely related to their daily lives than cotton. It is the most familiar fiber to French people, more closely connected to their lives than cotton.














In recent years, with the development of spinning technology in China and other countries, most of the processes other than the cultivation of raw materials (especially spinning by Junbun in China) are carried out outside of France, and the spinning process to turn linen into yarn is now mostly done outside of France. However, more than 100 years ago, when this fabric was produced, the fabric was grown, spun, and woven in France and could be called a genuine French linen.












The silhouette is firm and voluminous, yet soft and curvy, blending with the precious fabric.














The wrinkles created by the washing of the lining and the outer fabric, and the clean contrast between the vintage fabric and the raw color.











The pockets are double-layered and attached by hand stitching on the inside to create a plump, rounded shape.














The buttons are a row of narrowly spaced buttons, the buttons are vintage French corozo (mainly tagua palms from Ecuador). These quaint buttons are made by processing the endosperm part of the seeds inside the fruit.

Before the development of plastics from the 19th century to the 1950s, these buttons were actively made to take advantage of their smooth feel, hardness, durability, and dyeability.










vegetable ivoryの呼び名通りの乳白色の実を削って加工される何とも言えない丸みと、乳白色のベースを染める事で生まれる優しい色合いの魅力。見た目に反してしっかりした質感と重みを兼ね備えた、味わい深さを持ったボタンです。

As the name “vegetable ivory” implies, this button has an indescribable roundness created by shaving milky white berries, and the charm of the gentle coloring produced by dyeing the milky white base. Contrary to its appearance, this button has a solid texture and weight, and has a deep sense of taste.











The buttonholes, lined up in rows just like the buttons, are hand-crafted with linen cords.











Lining sewn by hand. The uneven stitching, which conveys stoicism rather than hand warmth, the expression of the stitching wrinkles, and the contrast of the fabrics create a dry depth. The lining, woven in India, has a rustic texture and wrinkle charm of unbleached fabric of moderate thickness, creating a contrast with the outer fabric and a sense of cleanliness.











Blind stitching by hand to sew the linings together. It must be meaningful that we spent more than ten times as much time on a job that would take only a few minutes if sewn with a sewing machine.











Hand-stitched stitches on some of the side and sleeve seam allowances. Dry handwork that discreetly asserts itself.











Fine stitching on the back collar.











The cuffs are also hand-stitched. Buttonholes made of linen cords are also all hand-stitched.











Deeply cut vents add even more expression to the larger hem circumference volume.














To lighten the hem, the lining hem is floated instead of sewn. A deep turnover is added to give the right amount of volume, and hand-stitched accents are added.





Waterproof, highly perspiring, tough, flame-resistant. The materials have become more and more sophisticated, and the shapes have continued to evolve in pursuit of mobility and work efficiency, but the world of workwear must be degenerating in terms of fashion. It is unfortunate that in recent years, the distinctive uniqueness of workwear has been fading away, or that the items themselves are no longer being made.











The form of work clothes that are no longer made. It is a piece of clothing that highlights the individuality and presence of the wearer, created by fusing dry hand work and modernity into it.








肩幅 = 47cm

バスト= 60cm (脇下)

袖丈 = 60cm

着丈 = 98cm 

Front Fabric  = French Vintage Linen / Linen
Back Fabric  = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth  / Cotton100%
Buttons     = 1950-1960 Vintage French Corozo Button

                       & Antique Fabric Covered Buttons






1960’s Vintage Stripe French Linen Fabric Made Maquignon Chore Worker Coat

[STANDARD By Manure Of Drawers] SOLD