French Vintage Linen/Wool Broken Twill Fabric Made Chore Work Coat

French Vintage Linen/Wool Broken Twill Fabric Made Chore Work Coat




1960’s  French Vintage Linen/Wool Broken Twill Fabric Made Chore Work Coat





This coat was prototyped from the Maquignon coats of the early 1900s, taking advantage of the beautifully crafted sleeves that follow the lines of the body with a shoulder slope and curve to meet the need for arm movement.











The beauty of French workwear lies in the three-dimensional, curvilinear designs created by patterns and sewing based on tailor-made work, and the expression of the fabrics that overflow with atmosphere. It is a completely different world from the tough and rugged workwear of the U.S. and U.K., where contrasting thick and sturdy stitches are double and triple stitched.











The French style, the cradle of fashion, was born for working people, and although it is supposed to be conceived in response to the demand for functionality, it does not forget “comfort” and “design sophistication”.














The silhouette is firm and voluminous, yet soft and curvy, blending with the precious fabric.











A gentle trapeze line leads from the relatively tight upper body to the voluminous hem area. Effective deep slits.













生地は1960年代のフランスのvintageのデッドストック。リネン大国であるフランスらしさを感じさせられる、リネン/ウールのbroken twill。

The fabric is a French vintage deadstock from the 1960s. It is a linen/wool broken twill, which gives a sense of France as a linen powerhouse.













経糸は少し太めに紡がれたブラックとグレーのメランジ糸のリネン。緯糸がブラックのウールで織られたbroken twill。単調なブラック色に収まらない奥深い色合いと、凹凸のある面白い表情。

The warp is a slightly thickly spun black and gray melange linen, and the weft is a black wool woven into a broken twill. The weft is woven with black wool, giving the broken twill a deep hue that does not fit into the monotonous black color, and an interesting uneven look.














This fascinating fabric is hard to believe that it is 60 years old, as you can feel the core of linen behind the soft wool fluff and softness.











The pockets are double-layered and attached by hand stitching on the inside to create a plump, rounded shape.













要所要所に色を添える、wrap over stitch。

Wrap over stitch to add color in key places.












The buttons are vintage French corozo (mainly tagua palms from Ecuador). These quaint buttons are made by processing the endosperm part of the seeds inside the fruit.

Before the development of plastics from the 19th century to the 1950s, these buttons were actively made to take advantage of their smooth feel, hardness, durability, and dyeability.













vegetable ivoryの呼び名通りの乳白色の実を削って加工される何とも言えない丸みと、乳白色のベースを染める事で生まれる優しい色合いの魅力。見た目に反してしっかりした質感と重みを兼ね備えた、味わい深さを持ったボタンです。

As the name “vegetable ivory” implies, this button has an indescribable roundness created by shaving milky white berries, and the charm of the gentle coloring produced by dyeing the milky white base. Contrary to its appearance, this button has a solid texture and weight, and has a deep sense of taste.











The buttonholes are lined up in rows, just like the buttons. Although a sewing machine can do it easily in a short time, I was willing to take the time to sew them by hand using linen cords because it gives a taste that cannot be expressed by a sewing machine, and it suits this coat.














Lining sewn by hand. The uneven stitching, which conveys stoicism rather than hand warmth, the expression of the stitching wrinkles, and the contrast of the fabrics create a dry depth. The lining, woven in India, has a rustic texture and wrinkle charm of unbleached fabric of moderate thickness, creating a contrast with the outer fabric and a sense of cleanliness.














Blind stitching by hand to sew the linings together. It must be meaningful that we spent more than ten times as much time on a job that would take only a few minutes if sewn with a sewing machine.














Hand-stitched stitches on some of the side and sleeve seam allowances. Dry handwork that discreetly asserts itself.











Hand-stitched linen cords on the opposite seam.














Fine stitching on the back collar.











The cuffs are also hand-stitched.














Vintage fabrics and the form of work clothes that are no longer made. It is a piece that highlights the individuality and presence of the wearer, created by fusing dry hand work and modernity into it.











肩幅 = 47cm

バスト= 60cm (脇下)

袖丈 = 60cm

着丈 = 102cm 


Front Fabric  = French Vintage  Linen/Wool Broken Twill/ Linen/Wool

Back Fabric  = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Clot/ Cotton100%
Buttons     = 1950-1960 Vintage French Corozo Button

          & Antique Fabric Covered Button






1960’s  French Vintage Linen/Wool Broken Twill Fabric Made Chore Work Coat

[STANDARD By Manure Of Drawers] SOLD