Indigo Linen “Villette” Fabric Made Stitch Raglan-sleeve Coat

Indigo Linen “Villette” Fabric Made Stitch Raglan-sleeve Coat





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Vintage French  Indigo Dyed Linen “Villette” Fabric Made Stitch Raglan-sleeve Coat




1930年代フランスのPTT(Les Postes, Télégraphes et Téléphones=郵政電信電話局)のオフィサーコートをモデルとしたラグランスリーブのコートです。

This raglan-sleeved coat is modeled after the 1930s French PTT (Les Postes, Télégraphes et Téléphones = Post and Telegraph Office) officer’s coat.












The long length, generous volume, and used vintage indigo linen fabric combine to create a dress with a strong presence.

The silhouette is very generous around the hem and has a relaxed trapeze line toward the hem.











The beauty of old French workwear is the three-dimensional and curvy design created by tailor-work based patterns and sewing, and the expression of fabrics full of atmosphere. This is a production that respects this trend.














It has its own style and is modern enough to be used today. It is a completely different world from the tough and rugged workwear with contrasting thick and sturdy stitching that is double or triple layered, as in the United States and England.











The three-piece raglan sleeves are very elaborate. The three-dimensionality that follows the curves of the arm as well as the roundness of the shoulder is something that can only be found in France, and goes beyond work clothes.














By joining folded parts, the sleeve ends are made with more volume and tailoring than simple turn-ups. This is unique to France, where style is sought even in work clothes.











A fabric called villette, often used in Maquignon garments, is woven from fine linen yarns and dyed with indigo. Linen grown in France, processed into fiber, spun into yarn, and woven on manual looms, the name Maquignon refers to those involved in the pastoral industry (graziers and middlemen of horses and cattle) and livestock and meat markets. The name derives from the Dutch word makelare (intermediary or negotiation), which initially referred to horse dealers, but eventually became a term for horse owners and breeders as well.










villetteと言う名前がもともと意味していたのは、パリの北東部にあった家畜・食肉市場のLa Villetteの事です。1974年に閉鎖され、今ではパリ最大の再開発公園地区となっているLa Villetteはフランス全土から家畜・食肉業者が集まる巨大な市場で、その周りには関連する商品を販売する商店も集合していました。

The name “villette” originally referred to La Villette, a livestock and meat market in northeastern Paris, which closed in 1974 and is now the largest redeveloped park area in Paris, It was surrounded by a cluster of stores selling related products.










写真は1850年あたりの、La Villette。BiaudeやVilletteと呼び名のついたワークコート(後のアトリエコート)を着た人々の姿が映っています。Biaudeを着て、牛や馬を引いて続々とパリの街中の市場へ集まってくるMaquignonや家畜業者の姿は、きっと普通の市民にとっては印象深い光景だったのだろうと思われます。Villetteという名前はやがて市場を指す言葉から広がって、ここに集まる業者の仕事着や、その仕事着に使われる生地までを意味するようになりました。

The photo shows La Villette around 1850, with people wearing work coats (later atelier coats) called biaude or villette, and Maquignon and livestock dealers wearing biaudes and pulling oxen and horses, gathering one after another at the market in the streets of Paris. The name “villette” eventually spread from the market to refer to the work clothes of the vendors and the fabrics they used for their work clothes.














The fabric is made of fine linen yarns, densely woven and tightly woven with yarns so fine and supple that it is hard to believe that this fabric was made in an era when hemp was still processed, spun, and woven mostly by hand by craftsmen.











It has a texture that retains the rustic charm unique to old fabrics, as if only the best parts of hemp, which is both soft and light, are concentrated, while still having a firm feel and tension.











The texture retains the rustic feel characteristic of old fabrics. The indigo has been slightly scorched by the sun, and the deep hue is mixed with a gradation of faded shades of color. As the wearer wears it more and more, the more blue it becomes, the more enjoyable it becomes. The change from now on is a proof of the wearer’s attachment.











France is literally a linen powerhouse, as it still produces 70% of the world’s linen flux (flax). Flax is used not only for clothing, but also for home linens such as sheets and bedclothes, table linens such as tablecloths and napkins, and is the most familiar fiber to French people, more closely related to their daily lives than cotton. It is the most familiar fiber to the French people, more closely related to their daily lives than cotton.










In recent years, due to the development of spinning technology in China and other countries, most of the processes other than the cultivation of raw materials (especially the spinning by moisture spinning in China) are done outside of France, and the spinning process to turn linen into yarn is mostly done outside of France. However, more than 70-80 years ago, when this fabric was made, there were fabrics grown, spun, and woven in France that could be called genuine French linen.











Darning and patches on the damaged parts of the fabrics due to the vintage that has passed through a long time.

It reflects the time with creativity, which can never be reproduced by processing.














Weathering by time, blotting by dirt, fading by the sun, and various other factors add up to a presence that requires no words.











Lining with hand stitching. Uneven stitching that conveys stoicism instead of hand warmth, the expression of stitch wrinkles and fabric contrast create a dry depth.











Blind stitching by hand to sew the linings together. It must be meaningful that we spent more than ten times as much time on a job that would take only a few minutes if sewn with a sewing machine.











The longer length and deep vents add to the expressiveness of the generous hem volume.











Hand-stitched stitches on some of the side and sleeve seam allowances, and on the fabric seams at the hem. Dry handwork that discreetly asserts itself.














The powerful look of buttons arranged in a row at narrow intervals.












The buttons are vintage French corozo (mainly tagua palms from Ecuador). These quaint buttons are made by processing the endosperm part of the seeds inside the fruit.

Before the development of plastics from the 19th century to the 1950s, these buttons were actively made to take advantage of their smooth feel, hardness, durability, and dyeability.













vegetable ivoryの呼び名通りの乳白色の実を削って加工される何とも言えない丸みと、乳白色のベースを染める事で生まれる優しい色合いの魅力。見た目に反してしっかりした質感と重みを兼ね備えた、味わい深さを持ったボタンです。

As the name “vegetable ivory” implies, this button has an indescribable roundness created by shaving milky white berries, and the charm of the gentle coloring produced by dyeing the milky white base. Contrary to its appearance, this button has a solid texture and weight, and has a deep sense of taste.











Buttonholes are also all hand-stitched.











To lighten the hem, the lining hem is floated instead of sewn. A deep turnover is added to give the right amount of volume, and hand-stitched accents are added.











Vintage fabric and the form of work clothes that are no longer made. This coat was created by fusing the dry work of hands with modernity. It is a garment that accentuates the individuality and presence of the wearer.










サイズ 2~3

裄丈 = 87cm(肩幅 50cm 袖丈62cm相当)

バスト= 62cm (脇下)

着丈 = 108cm 

Front Fabric = Vintage Indigo Linen Villette / Linen 100%
Back Fabric  = Indian Rustic Cotton  Broad Cloth / Cotton100%
Buttons    = 1950-1960 Vintage French Corozo Button

          & Antique Fabric Covered Button






Vintage French  Indigo Dyed Linen “Villette” Fabric Made Stitch Raglan-sleeve Coat

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