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“Paul Harnden” Dobcross Loom Shadow Plaid Light Wool Fabric Blazer for Women made Around 2005 with ALTERATION withHand Seam Stitching
ファッションの域を超え、多くの熱狂的なファンに愛され続けるPaul Harndenが作り出す世界観。派手さがなく、スタイリッシュ。ゆったりとしていて、とてもオーガニック。すべてが自然で…無骨な感じ。
The world view created by Paul Harnden, which transcends the realm of fashion and continues to be loved by many enthusiastic fans. It is stylish without being flashy. Laid-back and very organic. Everything is natural and… Rugged.
ロンドンの靴専門のCordwainers at London College of Fashion(＝Jimmy ChooやPATRICK COXを輩出)を卒業後、JOHN LOBBで1年間木型作りの見習を行ったあと、1987年にPaul Harnden Shoemakersを設立し独立した1959年生まれの謎多きカナダ人のPaul Richard Harnden。
After graduating from Cordwainers at London College of Fashion (which produced shoes such as Jimmy Choo and Patrick Cox), he apprenticed at JOHN LOBB for a year as a last maker, and then established Paul Harnden Shoemakers in 1987 and became independent. Paul Richard Harnden is a mysterious Canadian born in 1959.
彼はLONDONのOld Gloucester Streetとスコットランドで靴作りを行ったのち、1998年にWest Sussexの海辺の街Brightonで工房を設立。このBrightonの工房でパートナーとなった、University of Brightonで学んだのち、裁縫師として活動していたElena Dawson。Dawsonの指導の下、Harndenはclothing分野の製品製造へ業容を拡充し、2000年にPaul Harnden Clothiersを始動。
After making shoes on Old Gloucester Street in London and in Scotland, he established a workshop in Brighton, a seaside town in West Sussex, in 1998. My partner in this Brighton workshop is Elena Dawson, who studied at the University of Brighton and worked as a seamstress. Under Dawson’s guidance, Harnden expanded her business into manufacturing products in the clothing field and started Paul Harnden Clothiers in 2000.
2006年にこのパートナーシップは方向性の違いなどにより解消され、Elena Dawsonはイースト・サセックスで自身のレーベルを運営しています。しかし、Brightonの工房での彼女と Harndenの邂逅が無ければ、Paul Harndenのclothingラインの展開は始まっていなかったかも知れず、多くの熱狂的なファンの狂騒もなかったのかも知れません。
The partnership ended in 2006 due to differences in direction, and Elena Dawson now runs her own label in East Sussex. However, if it hadn’t been for her encounter with Harnden at Brighton’s workshop, Paul Harnden’s clothing line might not have begun to develop, and there might not have been the uproar of so many enthusiastic fans. not.
英国の田舎の風景や農夫の姿、アーミッシュ文化、南北戦争から産業革命前の労働着など1779年にまで遡るアーカイブからインスピレーションを得ているPaul Harndenの指向と嗜好。その理想は、Elena Dawsonの発想の原点を布と服を起点とし、時に非構築的な服作りへの思いとは乖離してしまったのかも知れません。
Paul Harnden’s orientation and tastes are inspired by archives dating back to 1779, including British countryside, peasantry, Amish culture, and workwear from the Civil War to pre-industrial times. His ideals may have diverged from Elena Dawson’s idea of cloth and clothing, and his desire for non-constructive clothing making.
Harndenの産業革命前の人々の生活やスタイルへの嗜好が、自身の作る靴やclothingの外形的なデザインに留まらず、その製法や素材選択の嗜好へも繋がっていくのは自然な事と捉えられます。
It is natural that Harnden’s preference for the lifestyle and style of pre-industrial people would lead not only to the external design of his shoes and clothing, but also to his manufacturing methods and choice of materials.
Paul Harndenで使用される素材はいずれも昔から英国で使われてきた伝統的で自然な素材。上質ではあるものの、あえて皺や不均一さを残した自然な表情の皮を植物タンニンで鞣したレザーを選び、作り上げた靴や鞄。
Paul Harnden uses traditional and natural materials that have been used in England for centuries. The leather used for our shoes and bags is vegetable-tanned leather, which is of high quality but still has a natural appearance with wrinkles and unevenness.
非常にトラディショナルな風合いのツイードや、シルク。寒冷な気候の英国では栽培できなかったコットンよりも、はるか昔から身近な素材で最も古くから身に付けられていた繊維としてのリネン。
Tweeds with a very traditional look and feel, and silk. Linen as the most ancient worn fiber, a material that has been around for much longer than cotton, which could not be grown in the cold climate of England.
マックコートなどに用いられる英国の産んだ高機能素材のVentile Cotton cloth。中でも裏地に使われる長繊維綿の80番手以上の双糸を経緯ともに超高密度に織り上げた独特のハリ感とフラットな生地の表面感を持った薄手のVentileはPaul Harndenでしか見られないもの。
Ventile Cotton cloth is a high-performance material produced in the U.K. and used for mack coats, etc. Among them, the thin Ventile fabric with a unique firmness and flat surface texture is only found at Paul Harnden, and is made by weaving twin 80 count or higher yarns of long-fiber cotton for the lining fabric in a super high density in both the warp and woof. This is something that can only be found at Paul Harnden.
そして、このジャケットに使われている、まさに産業革命前の人々が手にしたのと同じような超vintageで博物館的なクオリティと風合いを持つウール生地であるDobcross。
And Dobcross, the very same ultra-vintage, museum-quality and textured wool fabric used in this jacket that people had before the Industrial Revolution.
黎明期の機械式シャトル織機の「ドブクロス／Dobcross」は熟練職人が木製シャトルを使いゆとりを持って丁寧に織り込む機械で、現在、世界で稼働可能な個体は14台。すべてを英国最古の高級マーチャント「Holland & Sherry」が所有し、合併した「John Cooper&Son」と設立した「Dobcross Weaving Company」が世界で唯一の生産者となって供給されている。
Dobcross,” a mechanical shuttle loom from the early days, is a machine in which skilled craftsmen weave carefully and spaciously using a wooden shuttle. All of them are owned by Holland & Sherry, the oldest luxury merchant in England, and the Dobcross Weaving Company, established with John Cooper & Son, which merged with Holland & Sherry, is the sole producer and supplier in the world.
現在主流となっているエアジェット式織機では緯糸を1分間に約600回通すことが可能で1日に240mを織り上げられるが、John Cooper&Sonでは緯糸を1分間に約100回しか通せず、1日に約40メートルしか織る事のできない低速の織機で作られるドブクロス(Dobcross)を展開している。
The air-jet loom, which is currently the mainstream weaving machine, can thread weft yarns approximately 600 times per minute and weave 240 meters per day, but John Cooper & Son is developing Dobcross, which is made on a low-speed loom that can thread weft yarns only about 100 times per minute and weave only about 40 meters per day.
低速織機の魅力は、時間をかけて緩いテンションで織っていくため、緯糸にも経糸にも強い力が加わらず、弾性に富む豪奢で表情豊かな優しい風合いの服地ができるところ。
The attraction of the low-speed loom is that weaving is done with slow tension over time, so there is no strong force applied to either the weft or warp yarns, resulting in luxurious, expressive, and gentle textured fabrics that are rich in elasticity.
控えめな色のコントラストで静かに主張するシャドーチェック。生地の表面に見える細やかな膨らみと縮れがDobcross生地の持つ特性を語りかけてくれます。
The shadow check quietly asserts itself with its discreet color contrasts. The fine bulging and shrinkage visible on the surface of the fabric speaks to the characteristics of Dobcross fabric.
このジャケットは、このような様々な技法と時間と知識が詰め込まれたPaul Harndenの女性用のブレザーに、手仕事によるALTERATIONを加えた1着です。
This jacket is an ALTERATION of Paul Harnden’s women’s blazer, which is packed with various techniques, time, and knowledge, and is made by hand.
長年の着用で汚れの見られたライニングを、取り外して作り替え。ラスティックなコットンブロードは、適度な張りとシワ感が有り、インドで織られた素朴な糸の表情が魅力です。
The lining, which had become dirty after years of wear, was removed and replaced. Rustic cotton broadcloth has just the right amount of tension and wrinkles, and has the attractive look of simple threads woven in India.
ポケットの袋布も、長年溜まってこびり付いていたた正体不明の埃を除くためにも、ラスティックコットン作り替え。
Vintageにありがちなポケットの隅にこびりついた得体の知れない残り物・・裏地の脇のやネック辺りの変色、流れた時間の贈り物とは呼べない物は、取り除くのが基本です。
The bag cloth for the pockets was also made from rustic cotton to remove the unidentified dust that had accumulated over the years.
It’s important to get rid of mysterious leftovers that tend to stick to the corners of vintage pockets, such as discoloration on the side of the lining or around the neck, or anything that cannot be called a gift from the passing of time.
チェストポケットの袋布も新たにラスティックコットンで作り替え。手縫いで縫い付けた縫い目の表情も、豊かな時間を加える要素。フラップ裏もラスティックコットンにとりかえて、コントラストと動きと清潔感のある豊かな表情に。
The bag cloth of the chest pocket has also been made with new rustic cotton. The expression of the hand-sewn seams also adds a rich sense of time. The back of the flap has also been replaced with rustic cotton, creating a rich expression with contrast, movement, and a clean feel.
ハンドステッチでのラスティックコットンのライニング。手の温もりではなくストイックさを伝える不揃いなステッチ、縫い皺の表情や生地のコントラストが乾いた奥行きを作り出します。ミシンで縫えば数分の仕事に、その十数倍の時間をかけたことの意味は、きっとあるはず。
Blind stitching by hand to sew the linings together. It must be meaningful that we spent more than ten times as much time on a job that would take only a few minutes if sewn with a sewing machine.
ボタンも全て一度取り外し、リネンコードで手縫いで付け直し。力ボタンの一つをアレンジ。外したちからボタンはラベルに。
All the buttons were removed once and reattached by hand sewing with linen cord. Arrange one of the Support buttons into an icon. The removed Support button is stocked on the label.
背中心やサイド、袖の縫割りの縫い目の一部に施した手縫のステッチ。控えめに主張する乾いた手仕事。
Hand-sewn stitches on the center back, sides, and some of the seams on the sleeves. Dry handwork that makes a modest statement.
Paul Harndenの完成されたフォルムとシルエット。そこに乾いた手の仕事を融合させて作り上げた、誰も作ることの無かった着る人の個性と存在感をさらに際立たせる1着です。
Paul Harnden’s perfected form and silhouette. Combining this with the work of dry hands, we have created a piece that no one else has ever created that further highlights the individuality and presence of the wearer.
SIZE( PH’s Women M )
肩幅 ＝ 37cm
バスト幅＝ 43cm （脇下）
袖丈 ＝ 55cm
着丈 ＝ 62cm
ENGLAND／JAPANFront
Fabric = Dobcross Loom Shadow Plaid Light Wool Fabric / Wool 100%
Back Fabric = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth / Cotton100%
Buttons = Buffaro Horn Buttons & Leather Support Button & Antique Fabric Covered Buttons
& Antique Fabric Covered Button
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