India Ink Dyed French Metis&Linen Intricately Inlaid Patch Gilet

India Ink Dyed French Metis&Linen Intricately Inlaid  Patch  Gilet



Vintage India Ink Dyed Various French Metis&Linen Intricately Inlaid Hand Patch Fabric Made Gilet




A gilet is useful for adding nuance to a plain shirt and pants style, or for adding a touch of class to a jacket outfit.










19世紀末から20世紀初頭のLinen/Cotton(=Metis)やリネンなどの数種類をIndia Ink で染めた生地を、手縫いでpatchして作ったgilet。

This gilet is made of several types of Linen/Cotton (=Metis) and Linen from the end of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century, dyed with India Ink, and patched by hand.














France, which still produces 70% of the world’s flax, is literally a linen powerhouse. Flax is used not only for clothing, but also for home linens such as sheets and bedding, table linens such as tablecloths and napkins, and is the most familiar fiber to French people, more closely related to their daily lives than cotton. It is the most familiar fiber to French people, more closely connected to their lives than cotton.














The rustic fabric woven from such linen on a manual loom has a different taste from the delicate look of Villette used for Biaude, and is full of rusticity that conveys the robustness of France, an agricultural powerhouse that is completely different from sophistication and stylishness.











The taste is created by the different weaving methods and yarns used when dyeing with IndiaInk, with varying hues of red and blue, and shades ranging from charcoal gray to light gray.










その生地をフランスならではの生地を上から被せて縫い付けるのではなく、くり抜いた部分に接ぎ合わせるように縫い付けモザイク状にpatchしていく“Travile de Patch”で作り出した身頃。

The body is made by “Travile de Patch”, a technique unique to France in which the fabric is not sewn over the top, but is patched in a mosaic-like pattern by sewing it on to the hollowed-out areas.











The inlaid pattern is not a repetition of simple shapes, but an intricate combination of shapes.













生地に残されていた、フランスの伝統的な白糸刺繍(Broderie Blanche)。イニシャルを象ったモノグラムが、さらに味わいを深めます。

A traditional French “white work” (=Broderie Blanche) was left on the fabric. The monogram in the shape of initials further deepens the flavor.














PATCH is made of cotton threads with discreet color contrasts, joined with fine hand-stitched blind stitches of around 1.5 mm.














This PATCH could be sewn with a sewing machine and the seams would be beautiful, requiring only one-fifth of the time, but there must be a point to sewing it by hand.














Hand stitched useless pockets.










間隔を詰めて、ずらりと配したボタンは、3種類のbuffalo horn。

The buttons, narrowly spaced and arranged in rows, are three types of baffalo horns.











All buttonholes are also hand-stitched with linen cord.











Unbleached rustic cotton is hand-matted on the reverse side to give a plump look of hand-stitched wrinkles.











The sides and shoulders connecting the front and back are all sewn by hand. This is why the wrinkles are so plump, something that can only be done by hand, and a form of something that can only be done by hand.










サイズ 2

肩幅 = 41cm 

バスト= 52cm(脇下)

前着丈= 59cm 

後着丈= 55cm


Front Fabric = India Ink Dyed Metis&Linen

Lining Fabric = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth 

Button = Buffalo Horn Button (Random Choice)

                       & Antique Fabric Covered Buttons






India Ink Dyed Various French Metis&Linen Intricately Inlaid Hand Patch Fabric Made Gilet

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