Antique Hand Woven Linen Fabric Made Hand Sewn Patches Tailor Jacket

Antique Hand Woven Linen Fabric Made Hand Sewn Patches Tailor Jacket




End of 19th Century Antique Hand Woven French Bed Linen Fabric Made Hand Sewn Patches Tailor Jacket





This jacket is made of antique linen woven on several types of French manual looms from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century, and patched by hand in combination. The loose silhouette with a generous volume of fabric makes this jacket suitable for the warm and breezy season.










生地を上に被せてpatchするのでは無く、象嵌細工のように生地をくり抜きながらモザイク状に生地をpatchしていくフランス独特のpatch work=travail de patchだけが描き出せる不思議な魅力。

The patch work is not done by covering the fabric on top of the patch, but by hollowing out the fabric like an inlay work, and then patch the fabric in the form of a mosaic.













5mm以上ものピッチで太い糸を刺す刺し子や、ミシンで生地を叩きつけるパッチワークとは全く違う、静かな大人のpatch work。

Quiet adult PATCH WORK is completely different from stitching with thick threads at a pitch of 5mm or more SASHIKO, or from patchwork where the fabric is beaten with a sewing machine.











The intricately layered fabric patches have a look that can only be achieved by sewing by hand, not with a sewing machine.














The subdued contrast of the colors of the patched fabrics and the properly stitched edges are a completely different worldview from patches that are just cut and pasted fabrics, or improvised patches with flashy colors and patterns.














In contrast to the dependence on imported cotton materials, French linen is easy to obtain and familiar because it is grown in France. The fabric has a deep taste with various textures and shades that reflect the passage of years of use, and the withered texture further enhances the taste.











France is a major producer of flux, the raw material for linen, and is proud of its own brand of high quality French linen. However, even in France, most of the processes other than the cultivation of the raw material (especially the spinning by moisture spinning, which is mostly done in China) are now done outside of France, and pure French linen fabric is no longer available as it was when this fabric was made.














French linen is easily available and familiar because it is grown in France, whereas cotton is imported. The fabric has a deep taste with various textures and shades that reflect the passage of years of hard wear, and its withered texture further enhances the flavor.











It has a soft and soft texture that overturns expectations of hardness, roughness, and a taut feel that one might expect when hearing the word “linen”.














It is said that the more linen is used, the softer and more lustrous it becomes. As the popularity of old linen shows, linen is most beautiful after it has been used.














Tasteful linens are processed, spun, and woven by hand in an era when machine technology was not yet fully developed.











It is a piece that seems to be everywhere, but is nowhere to be found, spun by chance, time, and human hands.











Gently faced pockets that are lined and hand scooped and sutured.












The buttons are vintage French corozo (mainly tagua palms from Ecuador). These quaint buttons are made by processing the endosperm part of the seeds inside the fruit.

Before the development of plastics from the 19th century to the 1950s, these buttons were actively made to take advantage of their smooth feel, hardness, durability, and dyeability.













vegetable ivoryの呼び名通りの乳白色の実を削って加工される何とも言えない丸みと、乳白色のベースを染める事で生まれる優しい色合いの魅力。見た目に反してしっかりした質感と重みを兼ね備えた、味わい深さを持ったボタンです。

As the name “vegetable ivory” implies, this button has an indescribable roundness created by shaving milky white berries, and the charm of the gentle coloring produced by dyeing the milky white base. Contrary to its appearance, this button has a solid texture and weight, and has a deep sense of taste.











The  surgeon’s cuffs, which can be opened or folded back, create a modern nuance, and are a key to expanding the enjoyment of wearing it.












Rustic cotton broadcloth has the right amount of tension and wrinkles, and the rustic look of the yarn woven in India.

The liner is hand-patted to create a contrast in texture, color, and cleanliness. The soft stitching and wrinkles are the result of handwork.














Buttonholes are hand-stitched with linen thread for a rustic touch.











The “white work” (la broderie blanche), a thick, three-dimensional ornament embroidered with a unique French technique, is placed around the hem of the left front and on the back.














Only time-consuming and delicate handwork could have created this piece, which is drawn by covering the base made by stitching embroidery threads with fine satin stitches.










前身頃やフラップに配したのは、白糸刺繍とともにリネン類によく用いられたdrawn workと呼ばれる、フランスの手刺繍。部分的に抜き取った残りの糸をかがったり、渡した糸にステッチを行い、描き出された模様。

The front and flaps are decorated with French hand embroidery called “drawn work,” which is often used on linens, just as in the “white work. The pattern is drawn by stitching on the remaining thread that has been partially pulled out or passed over.













襟裏は細かなステッチと、手縫のcross stitch。

Fine stitching and hand-stitched cross stitching on the back of the collar.











The unevenness of the hand-stitched design creates a unique atmosphere.














Something “old and new, new but old.”










サイズ 2

肩幅 =45cm 


袖丈 =60 cm 

着丈 =70cm


Front Fabric = Antique Hand Woven French Bed Linen / Linen 100%   

Back Fabric  = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth /  Cotton 100%

Buttons    = 1950-1960 Vintage French Corozo Button  (Random Choice)

                       & Antique Fabric Covered Buttons






End of 19th Century Antique Hand Woven French Bed Linen Fabric Made Hand Sewn Patches Tailor Jacket

[ALTERATION By Manure of Drawers]  SOLD