Antique linen and herdmans spun linen inlaid hand patches shirt jacket

Antique linen  and herdmans spun linen inlaid hand patches shirt jacket





Early 20th century French hand woven antique linen  and herdmans spun linen fabric made inlaid hand patches shirt jacket





This shirt jacket combines an outer fabric made of several hand-sewn patches of antique linen from French manual looms of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and a lining of French linen spun by Herdmans.











Long half sleeves and drawcord lurking hem. The loose silhouette suits the coming season. It can be worn as a cloak or buttoned up, depending on the arrangement of the wearer.













生地を上に被せてpatchするのでは無く、象嵌細工のように生地をくり抜きながらモザイク状に生地をpatchしていくフランス独特のpatch work=travail de patchだけが描き出せる不思議な魅力。

The patch work is not done by covering the fabric on top of the patch, but by hollowing out the fabric like an inlay work, and then patch the fabric in the form of a mosaic.










5mm以上ものピッチで太い糸を刺す刺し子や、ミシンで生地を叩きつけるパッチワークとは全く違う、静かな大人のpatch work。

Quiet adult PATCH WORK is completely different from stitching with thick threads at a pitch of 5mm or more SASHIKO, or from patchwork where the fabric is beaten with a sewing machine.














The complex layers of fabric patches and the taste of hand stitching are the result of sewing by hand, not with a sewing machine. The beautiful expression when light shines through.














The subdued contrast of the colors of the patched fabrics and the properly stitched edges are a completely different worldview from patches that are just cut and pasted fabrics, or improvised patches with flashy colors and patterns.














In contrast to the dependence on imported cotton materials, French linen is easy to obtain and familiar because it is grown in France. The fabric has a deep taste with various textures and shades that reflect the passage of years of use, and the withered texture further enhances the taste.











France is a major producer of flux, the raw material for linen, and is proud of its own brand of high quality French linen. However, even in France, most of the processes other than the cultivation of the raw material (especially the spinning by moisture spinning, which is mostly done in China) are now done outside of France, and pure French linen fabric is no longer available as it was when this fabric was made.














French linen is easily available and familiar because it is grown in France, whereas cotton is imported. The fabric has a deep taste with various textures and shades that reflect the passage of years of hard wear, and its withered texture further enhances the flavor.














It has a soft and soft texture that overturns expectations of hardness, roughness, and a taut feel that one might expect when hearing the word “linen”.












It is said that the more linen is used, the softer and more lustrous it becomes. As the popularity of old linen shows, linen is most beautiful after it has been used.














Tasteful linens are processed, spun, and woven by hand in an era when machine technology was not yet fully developed.











It is a piece that seems to be everywhere, but is nowhere to be found, spun by chance, time, and human hands.











The lining is made of a light French linen spun by Herdmans, a linen spinning company with the highest secret technique that has created the history of “Irish Linen,” the highest grade of linen synonymous with luxury. What has made the reputation of “Irish Linen” unshakeable is Herdmans’ accumulation of advanced spinning technology that enables the company to produce ultra-fine 140 count yarn (linen count) from the raw material flax.











Inexpensive linen may start out clean, but after repeated wear and washing, it will quickly become fluffy and faded looking. Inexpensive cashmere or merino wool knitwear may look good before it is worn, but it will soon become pilled. Herdmans, however, discards about 40% of the raw material instead of using the shorter fibers, resulting in yarns with a wonderful, long-lasting texture. The price is high, but the meaning is irreplaceable.















The buttons are vintage French corozo (mainly tagua palms from Ecuador). These quaint buttons are made by processing the endosperm part of the seeds inside the fruit.

Before the development of plastics from the 19th century to the 1950s, these buttons were actively made to take advantage of their smooth feel, hardness, durability, and dyeability.










vegetable ivoryの呼び名通りの乳白色の実を削って加工される何とも言えない丸みと、乳白色のベースを染める事で生まれる優しい色合いの魅力。見た目に反してしっかりした質感と重みを兼ね備えた、味わい深さを持ったボタンです。

As the name “vegetable ivory” implies, this button has an indescribable roundness created by shaving milky white berries, and the charm of the gentle coloring produced by dyeing the milky white base. Contrary to its appearance, this button has a solid texture and weight, and has a deep sense of taste.














Buttonholes are hand-stitched with linen thread for a rustic touch.











Pockets sewn by hand with internal stitching specifications not normally used for shirts of a slightly larger size. The gentle bulge is something that cannot be created with ordinary specifications.











The drawcord is an original combination of three types of linen cords. The drawcord can be tightened to give the garment a more outer look, and the silhouette can be played with depending on the person who wears it.










前身頃やヨークに配したのは、リネン類によく用いられたdrawn workと呼ばれる、フランスの手刺繍。部分的に抜き取った残りの糸をかがったり、渡した糸にステッチを行い、描き出された模様。

The front and flaps are decorated with French hand embroidery called “drawn work,” which is often used on linens, just as in the “white work. The pattern is drawn by stitching on the remaining thread that has been partially pulled out or passed over.











Fine stitching and hand-stitched cross stitching on the back of the collar.











The unevenness of the hand-stitched design creates a unique atmosphere.











Something “old and new, new but old.”










サイズ 2

肩幅 =45cm 


袖丈 =37cm(33cm)

着丈 =72cm



Front Fabric = Antique Hand Woven French Bed Linen / Linen 100%   

Back Fabric  = Herdmans Spinning French Linen/ Linen100%

Buttons    = 1950-1960 Vintage French Corozo Button  (Random Choice)

                       & Antique Fabric Covered Buttons

コード = Original cord made up of three different linen cords.






Early 20th century French hand woven antique linen  and herdmans spun linen fabric made inlaid hand patches shirt jacket

[STANDARD By Manure of Drawers]  SOLD