Vintage Toile de Coton Fabric Made French Maquignon Biaude Coat

Vintage Toile de Coton Fabric  Made French Maquignon Biaude Coat



1940-1950 Vintage Toile de Coton Fabric  Made French Chore Work Worker Maquignon Biaude Coat




This coat is an ALTERATION of the Maquignon smock, handmade in France in the 1940s. It is a piece with overwhelming power that envelops all physiques of the wearer, with a body width that is almost twice the volume of normal clothing folded into pleats around the neck, wide shoulders, and ample length.











While there is a wide range of stylish workwear with a unique style and modernity, such as atelier coats made of twisted salt and pepper fabric, coveralls and work pants made of French serge and moleskin, and hunting jackets made of thick-ribbed piqué, there is a completely different type of workwear with a completely different appeal in France.











French work in general developed with the development of industry and commerce in urban and suburban areas, and was manufactured, supplied or purchased and worn in a uniform sense. Based on design and pattern making by experts with clothing knowledge and skills, as well as sewing and process control, industrially produced workwear was itself a respectable product and the fruit of the Industrial Revolution and modernization.














In the surrounding rural areas, however, it was not until the mid-1900s that people began to modernize their lifestyles and work clothes. France, which is the largest agricultural producer in the European Union (EU) and still has a food self-sufficiency rate of over 120%, had a variety of handmade clothing and work clothes that were unique to France and colored with rich sensibilities, such as biaude made by cattle farmers and smocks used as indoor and sleeping wear by farmers.














This is a biaude made in France in the 1940s, and is the prototype of the tunics and smocks worn from the 19th to the mid-20th century, which were the working clothes of farmers from the Middle Ages onward.

It is said to have been worn by herdsmen and shepherds who herded horses and cattle, but it is most well known that it was worn by horse brokers, known as maquignon.














Maquignon was originally derived from the Dutch word makelare (intermediary or negotiation), and initially referred to horse dealers, but eventually became a term for horse owners and breeders as well.










この写真は1850年あたりの、牛や羊など家畜業者が集まるパリのLa Villetteの家畜・食肉市場の写真には、BiaudeやVilletteと呼び名のついたワークコート(後のアトリエコート)を着た人々の姿が映っています。Biaudeを着て、牛や馬を引いて続々とパリの街中の市場へ集まってくるMaquignonや家畜業者の姿は、きっと普通の市民にとっては印象深い光景だったのだろうと思われます。

This photo of the La Villette livestock and meat market in Paris around 1850, where cattle, sheep, and other livestock dealers gathered, shows people wearing work coats (later atelier coats) called biaude or villette. wearing biaude, pulling cattle and horses one after another. The sight of maquignons and livestock dealers gathering at the markets in the streets of Paris must have been an impressive sight for ordinary citizens.














Normandy is famous for horse breeding in France, but there is another region in France called Auvergne, an agriculturally disadvantaged area in the central massif of France, and the Cantal department in this region also has a long history of horse breeding. In Auvergne, a mountainous region unsuitable for arable farming, cattle farms account for about 70% of the farms, with sheep farming, horse farming, and arable farming making up the remainder.











There is a theory that the indigo-dyed linen smocks worn by livestock farmers in this Auvergne area for centuries, and used as both work clothes and formal wear, may have been introduced to Maquignon, who came to trade horses, and spread as Biaude. This photo shows 19th century villagers in formal wear dancing to the tune “Boule de Auvergne”.














Another aspect of Auvergne is that it created the café culture of Paris. The story goes that the people of Auvergne, who were poor and unable to cultivate land, went out to work and sold water when there was no running water, and when running water became widespread, they sold charcoal, rented a room to store charcoal for sale, and began selling alcohol and drinks in a corner of the room, which was the beginning of the French café.











In fact, until about 30 years ago, about 80% of the cafes in France were run by people from Auvergne. It is a strange contrast that the people who have created France’s world-class café culture are from the countryside, the opposite of Paris’ sophistication.

Cafes, which serve drinks, alcohol, and food from early in the morning until late at night without a break, are a busy and demanding business, and there is a shortage of successors. It is a sad trend of the times that even today, Chinese who are willing to do such hard work are taking over the rights and replacing them with Auvergne people.













生地はToile de coton(トワル)と呼ばれる、フランスの打ち込みの緩やかな綿帆布。時を経た生地の変化と、深みのあるブルーグレーの落ち着いた色合い。

The fabric is Toile de coton, a French cotton canvas with a gentle weaving. The fabric has changed over time and has a deep, subdued blue-gray hue.














We do not know if the owner who ordered it had a large physique or if this quantity was the standard for the maker who made this piece, but the overwhelming volume and power of this piece, with a body width of over 1 meter, is full of charm.











The discreet softness created by the pleats around the neck and sleeves. The overwhelming volume of the sleeves and body is combined to create a magical piece that creates a silhouette for each individual, regardless of the wearer’s physique.














The collar is a stand collar with a solid volume, which is rare in Biaude at this time, when most of the collars are simple or collarless. The choice of material made from fabrics other than linen, the shape of the collar, the powerful volume, and the specification of pleats instead of gathers. It is a dress that shows a playful spirit, stepping out from the standard type of these days.














Patch and darning hand stitching to repair and decorate the damage, each stitch painstakingly and in a variety of ways. Uneven colors, fraying, tears, sunburns, and fading marks. These are things spun by chance, time, and the human hand, and can never be produced on paper or on a digital screen.












This is one piece that ALTERATION was made into a coat that can be woven from this smock that has been around for a long time and is unique in its own right. What was a pullover smock type was changed to a front opening, and button holes were made and buttons were attached.













The buttons we chose are vintage French corozo (mainly tagua palms from Ecuador), which have traces of time etched into them. Various changes, such as dull luster, uneven coloring, and fine cracks, caused by the passage of time, add flavor to the piece.










vegetable ivoryの呼び名通りの乳白色の実を削って加工される何とも言えない丸みと、乳白色のベースを染める事で生まれる優しい色合いの魅力。見た目に反してしっかりした質感と重みを兼ね備えた、味わい深さを持ったボタンです。

As the name “vegetable ivory” implies, this button has an indescribable roundness created by shaving milky white berries, and the charm of the gentle coloring produced by dyeing the milky white base. Contrary to its appearance, this button has a solid texture and weight, and has a deep sense of taste.














The buttonholes lined up in a row are also all hand-stitched with linen cords. Like the hand stitching on the placket, the unintentional disorder that cannot be created by the holes of a sewing machine gives a tasteful expression.













インパクトたっぷりの存在感の大きなポケット。ダメージを補修し、裏にrustic cottonをつけてさらに立体的に。

Large pockets with a large impact and presence. Damage has been repaired and rustic cotton has been added to the back to make it even more voluminous.











Maquignon’s unique dual pockets of different sizes.














The damaged square-shaped cuffs were repaired, and the folded over cuffs were reworked into a rounded shape that also serves as a point of reference. We gave them a softer impression different from the ones for work wear.














All linings are also blind-stitched by hand. The meaning of spending more than ten times as much time on a job that would take only a few minutes if sewn with a sewing machine is also reflected here.














To lighten the hem, the lining hem is floated instead of sewn. A deep turnover is added to give the right amount of volume, and hand-stitched accents are added.














Clothing is not about antique value. We are looking for a fusion of modernity with the brilliance of the past and the present.

It is a one-of-a-kind existence that is “old and new, new and old.










サイズ △(フリー)

肩幅 =70cm 


袖丈 =47 cm 

着丈 =113cm


Front Fabric = Vintage Toile de Coton / Cotton 100% 

Back Fabric  = Indian Rustic Cotton Broad Cloth / Cotton 100%

Buttons   = 1930-1940 Vintage French Corozo Button (Random Choice)

                        & Antique Fabric Covered Button






1940-1950 Vintage Toile de Coton Fabric  Made French Chore Work Worker Maquignon Biaude Coat

[ALTERATION By Manure of Drawers]  SOLD